Just about everyone wants to know how to minimize pores. Visible pores rank as one of the most common complaints people have about their skin. Social media influencers filtering their pores and skin texture into oblivion make the problem seem even worse.
Pore cleansing masks and pore shrinking serums are always popular, but can they really work? Find out why not and learn how to safely shrink pores (temporarily) with my famous three-step oil gritting method for pore cleaning!
Affiliate links in this post are marked with an asterisk(*). Products originally provided to me for review are marked with double asterisks(**).
But first, let’s debunk some common pore myths.
Skincare mythbusting: Why you can’t learn how to close your pores
Pore Myth 1: Your nose is covered in blackheads.
That is probably untrue. Those enlarged and darkened pores on your T-zone and sometimes on other areas of your face are much more likely to be sebaceous filaments (SFs). SFs are essentially a mixture of sebum, bacteria, dead skin cells, and a single hair (I know, I know, gross) that have filled up a large pore. So when you’re asking how to shrink pores, what you’re really asking is how to remove sebaceous filaments. SFs are what this method addresses.
In practice, though, that’s mostly semantics. If you think of your SFs as blackheads, you’re definitely not alone! We’re laypeople and we can use the terms interchangeably because language is fluid and shared understanding of our meaning is what matters. Also I would like people to find this post when they’re searching for how to remove blackheads because how to remove sebaceous filaments is really what they’re asking.
Pore Myth 2: Pores can be “shrunk” or “closed.”
My research for the current iteration of this post showed me how prevalent common pore myths are. People ask “how to make pores smaller,” “how to shrink pores permanently,” and even “how to close pores permanently” thousands of times every month.
It is encouraging to see that people nowadays also ask “how to remove sebaceous filaments,” but not nearly as often.
Sadly, while you can unclog pores and temporarily diminish their appearance using techniques like mine, you can’t physically shrink the actual size of your pores.
Keeping skin plump and hydrated can help. There’s some evidence that actives like retinoids and azelaic acid, and secondary actives like niacinamide, may help reduce their size slightly over time and regulate oil production. But in general, the size of your pores is the size of your pores.
The only exception I can think of is when pores are stretched out and damaged, usually through the use of harsh, gimmicky pore strips or pore masks. Those peel-off pore strips may pull out some SFs, and I know it feels awesome to use one and then see how much gross stuff is stuck to the strip afterwards, but the damage they can cause your pores will make the problem worse in the long run.
Also avoid picking at your SFs, squeezing them, or using those little metal extractor tools. Manual extraction also puts you in danger of permanently enlarged pores.
Pore Myth 3: Pores open and close.
Pores do not open and close. There aren’t little tiny muscles around every pore in your face, flexing and relaxing depending on what you’re doing to your skin or what you’ve applied to it. The idea that a warm washcloth or steam treatment will “open” your pores to allow products to penetrate more deeply is a myth. (Dampening skin does increase its permeability, but not because of your pores.)
The idea that a splash of cold water or an astringent toner will “close” your pores is also a myth. Trying to figure out how to close pores permanently is a futile pursuit. Pores are a natural feature of living skin and they’re here to stay.
So there’s no right answer to how to close your pores. BUT. You can learn how to minimize pores on nose and anywhere else needed. My three step deep pore cleansing facial has been passed around and copied and adapted so many times in the last 10 years (usually without credit, but whatever) because it works. Let’s find out how!
What you need for my pore cleaning routine
To do my oil gritting routine, you’ll need about an hour, preferably in the morning, and three skincare products:
- A 2% BHA exfoliant. I’ve been using COSRX BHA Blackhead Power Liquid* (full review) for years, but any BHA with the correct percentage and pH will do. If your skin is pretty hardy, the very affordable 2% Salicylic Acid Solution from The Ordinary* is effectively formulated and stronger than the COSRX BHA. You can also try Stridex Maximum Strength Medicated Pads* if your skin is quite oily and can take a fair amount of drying. (Notice that all of these products are relatively cheap. Salicylic acid is not an expensive ingredient, nor is it difficult or costly to formulate effectively. So don’t buy some expensive pore serum when these budget-friendly options work fine.)
- A pore cleansing mask containing kaolin and/or bentonite clay. I started this routine using the Innisfree Super Volcanic Pore Clay Mask* in an older incarnation. While it was effective, it could be difficult to spread and rinse off. The current version linked above is creamier, softer, and much more user friendly! I love it for normal or normal to oily skin. For dry or sensitive skin types, I’m a fan of Papa Recipe Eggplant Clearing Mud Cream Mask***, a soft, creamy, gentle clarifying option. Meanwhile, if you have tougher skin, look into The Ordinary Salicylic Acid 2% Masque***, which contains an effective concentration of salicylic acid in a clay mask base. I find it stings a bit and must be used carefully, but it’s an outstanding clay mask for blackheads, sebaceous filaments, and general pore cleaning.
- An emulsifying oil cleanser or cleansing balm. The best oil cleanser for sebaceous filaments will depend on your skin and preferences, so experiment a bit. After years and years, I still love Banila Co Clean It Zero Cleansing Balm* (use code 15JCHAO for 15% off). This sherbet-textured balm has enough thickness to stay on during the oil soaking portion of this routine, draws grits out nicely when it’s time to massage, and has plenty of lubricating slip to prevent dragging or irritation during the massage step. These qualities are what I look for when I want the best cleansing oil for sebaceous filaments.
How to remove sebaceous filaments in 3 steps
Note: The best time to do this is in the morning, before your regular morning skin care routine. This way, you won’t have to cleanse first and then again at the end of this process.
- As long as you don’t have makeup or sunscreen on, apply your BHA product first wherever you want to remove SFs. (If you have makeup or sunscreen on, double cleanse as normal before beginning.) The oil-soluble BHA will penetrate into the sebum filling up your pores, loosening the gunk to make it easier to remove with the following steps. Wait 20-25 minutes to allow the BHA to do its job.
- Without washing off the BHA, apply your choice of clay mask for blackheads. Wait for however long the clay mask instructions specify.
- Rinse off your clay mask with tepid to lukewarm water. Be careful with your water temperature here. You don’t want to strip your skin by throwing hot water at it on top of a BHA and clay mask. Pat dry with a towel.
- Apply your cleansing oil or balm. Let it sit for 15-20 minutes. The oil will help draw the gunk in your pores to the surface.
- Gently massage your face or areas you’re treating for 2-3 minutes. If all has gone well, at this point you’ll feel tiny, sandy little grains coming out of your pores! These are the clogs that have been making your pores more visible. Many people call them “grits,” and getting grits out of your face is amazingly satisfying. Don’t apply too much pressure to your skin or massage for longer than 5 minutes, tops. Doing so can result in broken capillaries. Those can’t be fixed without pricey laser treatments. I’ve seen content creators doing a version of my oil gritting routine that involves massaging for TWENTY MINUTES or more. That’s bad. I do not approve of that message.
- Marvel at the grits on your fingertips or don’t worry if you don’t see or feel them. Some people don’t, either because the clogs are too small or because there wasn’t enough sebum and dead skin buildup to create grits. Even if you don’t feel any coming out, this deep pore cleansing facial is still working to clarify and reduce the appearance of your pores.
- After the oil massage, emulsify and rinse off your cleansing oil or balm as usual. Continue with your regular skin care routine.
At this point, you should notice that the appearance of your pores is visibly reduced, whether or not you felt any grits. Congratulations! Open pores do generally fill back up if you don’t maintain them, but adding a BHA to your regular skin routine and hitting them with my oil gritting method should help keep them at bay.
Now you know not to search for how to close your pores, how to reduce pore size, or how to shrink pores permanently. This means you know enough to avoid getting scammed by products that promise they can do the anatomically impossible. Even better, you know how to unclog pores and how to minimize pores in a safe, effective way you can do at home.
What’s your favorite pore cleansing mask and oil cleanser for sebaceous filaments? Find me on Instagram @fiddysnails and let me know!
Fifty Shades of Snail 
318 responses to “How to Shrink Pores | Oil Gritting Deep Pore Cleansing Facial”
[…] start off this post, I would like to thankΒ Fiddy SnailsΒ for her pore tightening […]
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Hi there! I recently bought the products you have recommended but I haven’t used any one of them. How should I do the patch test? Should I perform a test for each product? How long should I wait before using them all together??
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[…] Skincare Practices: To clear out gunk […]
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I tried this, and it left my skin very shiny β almost like it had been over-exfoliated and didnβt actually do anything for my SFs. Do you have any suggestions for troubleshooting? Iβd really like to get my SFs under control before a big event coming up! π
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Same here. It makes the skin feel absolutely phenomenal, but after cleaning the clay mask off, I see these little sebaceous filaments on my nose that want to come out and are struggling to be pulled out. This is the same result after two uses and sticking exactly to the guide.
Any advice to hoover these things out?
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[…] fine for me – it’s very gentle but I can really see amazing results when I use Fifty Shades of Snail‘s pore shrinking method with my Innisfree Super Volcanic Pore Clay Mask – so I will […]
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[β¦] outside of what would be expected from any clay-based mask. It was effective when used as part of Fiddyβs Pore-Minimising Method, but I feel like there are plenty of options for a simple clay mask that are better value for [β¦]
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Hi, i think they also copied your routine here: https://www.bustle.com/articles/182710-this-is-the-most-effective-way-to-use-a-charcoal-mask-photos
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Hi! I was wondering if COSRX AHA Power Liquid can be used to replace the BHA in this method? I bought it hoping that SF in my nose and chin would diminish, but the only difference it made was to make my skin clearer and brighter. Iβm dying to remove these nasty SF in my face. Hoping for your response. Thank you!
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nope, they’re not equivalent. AHA is not oil-soluble, so basically it won’t do anything for your sebaceous filaments.
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hi i dumb question but do you think its possible to shrink your pores through surgery? is there any chance that would make them appear smaller? thanks in advance love your tips thank you so much for sharing
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[…] stumbled upon Fiddy’s pore cleansing methodΒ while I was looking for a gentler way to cleanse your pores. This method requires three products: […]
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[…] but I would advise against using this too often. There are better ways to deal with SFs like BHAs, clay masks, and oil cleansing. I just put in an order for a BHA, and I’m looking for a good clay mask, but I can attest to […]
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[β¦] ei o gasiti aici, eu o sa descriu pe scurt ce presupune metoda si ce rezultate am vazut in cazul [β¦]
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[…] filaments, my arch nemesis. I’m thinking of sticking to the same old products but using Fiddy’s pore-buster routine twice a week and seeing how that goes. If I’m still not happy then I’ll probably either […]
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[…] precisely to get the most out of your clay mask and DESTROY THEM BLACKHEADS HOMIE. Credit goes to Fiddy Snails for popularizing this […]
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Hi I followed your instructions two days now and got my skin shinny but the SF’s didn’t go away. Am I doing something wrong how many times does it take for them to get removed?
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[…] old routine, I thought it would be good to remove the bulk of the dirt and dead skin. I found this deep pore cleaning routine on a skincare blog called Fifty Shades of Snail and thought I’d try it […]
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[…] but more than often I come across some well worth finds and one of those finds were the awesome pore shrinking method by Fiddy AKA Jude from Fifty Shades of Snail. According to her article, our pores donβt open or close […]
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I did everything this blog said, with the same products, and I only got a really shiny nose. My SFs are still here. It didn’t get rid of any of them. I didnt feel grits either. Should I have opened up my pores before? Should I cleanse my face before doing it? Also my BHA is in the form of pads, is that still okay? What am I doing wrong
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I have been trying to wean off pore strips because of how damaging it can be on the skin. Been looking for a better solution to declog pores… then I came across your method (via reddit)!
Just tried it with a combination of COSRX BHA Liquid Solution + Innisfree Pore Clay Mask + Innisfree Blackhead Out Balm and I love the results so much I had to leave a message! I could finally remove some bumps that were on my skin for the longest time.
(I did cheat a little by using the remnants of my KOSE black mask after finishing the three steps but I think I can probably say goodbye to that step in my skincare routine with this. FINALLY.)
Thank you for sharing!
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I just gave it a go tonight with my drunk elephant Sukari baby facial, origins clay mask, and Charlotte Tilbury multi-miracle glow and OMG! My skin feels like I just got a $200 facial. I definitely felt the grit. I have been battling with SF almost my whole entire life. I am so happy to find a wonderful regimen.
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Woohoo! And what a luxurious version of the routine!
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Hi, I was wondering if it would be okay to use pure evening primrose oil as my carrier oil? And if so, is there any particular method to remove it effectively, since it is not an emulsifying solution, or does simply rinsing with warm water do the trick? Thanks!
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[…] non-comedogenic moisturizer that everyone’s been raving, and several days ago, I try the Fiddysnails’ method to remove blackhead because I solely want to finish the strong BHA Product that I purchased solely for this purpose, […]
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[…] dear Fiddy Snails came up withΒ a very effective method of clearing out the excess sebum and sebaceous filaments from pores. But there are some of us, […]
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Should I do this daily? And please tell whether I can do this morning or evening. Thanks in advance.
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I like to do this in the morning so that I don’t have to remove makeup/sunscreen first. And only do once a week! It would be too drying to do it daily.
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Thank you for replying.
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[…] and some thinks that it makes their skin broke out horribly; is because I’m curious to try Fiddysnail’s Grits MethodΒ and she highly recommend to use this particularΒ COSRX BHA Blackhead Power Liquid as the exfoliant […]
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[…] I was curious to try clearing out my pores using the Fifty Shades of Snail “Super Pore Killer” method, which necessitates a clay mask as one of its three steps (after salicylic acid and before […]
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[…] Fifty Shads of Snail : HOW TO SHRINK PORES (TEMPORARILY), PLUS 3 PORE MYTHS How to Shrink Pores (Temporarily), Plus 3 Pore Myths […]
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[…] difference attributable to them specifically. I used these products most when incorporated into the Fifty Shades of Snail pore minimizing routine, which requires a cleansing oil. (Definitely try this if you want to deep clean your face!) The […]
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Just did this with CosRx Natural BHA Skin Returning Emulsion, followed by my Pure Biology Clay Face Mask, and cleaned up with Banila Co Clean It Purity Zero & Shiseido Ibuki Gentle Cleanser. WOW. So awesome to feel all the gunk coming out of my face, skin is visibly smoother, nose and chin are clearer, and a few CCs were opened too. Relaxing now with a green tea hydrogel mask ^_^ Thank you!
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Great article but I would have to disagree on the pore size bit. My entire life I had pretty much perfect skin and practically invisible pores. About a year ago I stupidly tried this retinol product and it completely destroyed my face. On top of a host of other damage, ever since then my pores have been enormous and VERY clogged, to the point where the gunk actually raises out of the pore above the skin. I’ve read about others who went back to normal eventually after the same experience, so I know it’s possible for them to clear out and shrink back to their normal size. It’s just been a nightmare not only feeling like a monster but trying to figure out how to clear them out and get my skin to heal from that and all the other damage retinol did. I found this article researching how to do just that and plan to give the BHA/Clay/Oil method a go. I’ve tried BHA and oil separately with no results but maybe the clay mask is the missing link.
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[…] for most of the year and my nose & forehead are still full of sebaceous filaments (after trying this method so many swear by, I’ve realised I’m a hopeless case anyway), regardless this is the […]
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[…] Read the post here: https://fiftyshadesofsnail.com/2015/03/28/how-to-shrink-pores-temporarily-plus-3-pore-myths/ […]
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[…] How to Shrink Pores (Temporarily), Plus 3 Pore Myths […]
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Hi in a week how many time to use n when should use…
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And I see ur double cleansing method too n tis method should do daily…Thank s in advance
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[…] How to Shrink Pores (Temporarily), Plus 3 Pore Myths […]
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[…] How to Shrink Pores (Temporarily), Plus 3 Pore Myths […]
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[…] Chao runs the Fifty Shades of Snail blog about skincare. Chao’s article about visibly shrinking your pores caught my attention after a plea on reddit to help me with my […]
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To remove the SFs first of all clean my fave with facial wash. i use COSRX pimple pad and wait for 5 minutes, then continue the next step using micellar water and then wait for 5 minutes. After that wash it with clean water without facial wash. Then using claymask about 10 minutes and clean it with my fingertip and lukewarm water. The result is sattisfying enough i think.
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Wow! I have been struggling with SF since I was a teenager. I hated it so much and it always looked so bad under foundation. After having done this step every other week for a couple of months now, the SF are almost all gone. I use Drunk Elephant Sukari Baby Facial followed by Origins Charcoal mask then Tatcha Cleansing Oil. It works like a dream. Thank you.
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Hi~ Instead of using a BHA product, can I use the Cosrx AHA/BHA Clarifying treatement? Will this have the same results, because I’d like to clean up the black n whiteheads. Thank You
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Hi there – I’ve been doing this treatment for 3 weeks now using Paula’s BHA, Innisfree Mask, and DHC Oil Cleanser (1x/week as you recommended). I have not noticed any grits, however, I have noticed less visible and cleaner pores, and most of my SFs after each treatment are dying to come out. The more stubborn ones stay til the next treatment. Based on other’s reviews, this all seems normal.
My concern is that I’ve never had cystic acne and suddenly, I’ve developed 4 small-medium sized cystic acne blemishes that truly hurt. Is this normal? Has anyone else experienced this? Is this part of the process of bringing imperfections to the surface? Or is this treatment just not for me?
Thanks so much in advance.
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hello, can i use before applying bha product a pH-adjusting toner?
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[…] I stumbled on fanserviced-b’s blog post about BHAs and I thought I’d give it a shot. Lucky for me Paula’s Choice is running a promo so I thought I’d share. I have what some people call a “strawberry nose” haha. Once it’s in I’ll take some before and after photos using it on its own and with fiddysnail’s pore method. […]
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[…] This is said method: https://fiftyshadesofsnail.com/2015/03/28/how-to-shrink-pores-temporarily-plus-3-pore-myths/ […]
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How do you feel about chemical exfoliants like Dr.Brandts poredermabrasion or trueforas triple action chemical exfoliater? I’ve used both and I feel like my pores have looked reduced and less inflamed with dirt and clogs
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I ask because most of the tips and techniques are against everything I’ve ever heard from girlfriends and magazines so I’m wondering if my exfoliants will be debunked too.
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Wow!!! Just tried it for the first time. I used the CVS brand knock-off stridex pads with 2% salicylic acid, rainbow research French green clay, and Badger unscented face cleansing oil. I notice that the “grits” starting appearing within the first minute, and there were a LOT of them by the 2nd and 3rd minute. The only tough thing was stopping at 5 minutes because once your pores start unclogging, you really want to keep going :). I’m going to start doing this 1-2 times per week. I’m really curious to see what happens with my skin over time.There are some really stubborn sebaceous filaments on the top of my nose so if I see progress there I’ll be very very happy. Thank you so much for sharing!
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Was there a certain technique you used with you used the oil for the last step…I donβt ever get the gritty feel so Iβm wondering if you did something special. It could also just be the fact that I havenβt rubbed the oil for longer than a minute…Iβm so impatient! π
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I’ve been following this routine for several weeks. I use what I could find easily in the drugstore in my country such as Garnier’s Matcha Deep Clean Blackhead&Pore Clay Mask and Ovale Olive Oil (the only exception is COSRX’s BHA). And eventhough I only did this once a week, it’s helping me a lot with my acnes! The feeling when the grits are coming out was just beyond amazing!! I never knew that my pores (especially on the side of my cheeks where hormonal acnes usually appears) hide those kind of gunks underneath. Thank you for sharing this! β€
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This hack is my personal gamechanger. I raved about it on my insta-account already but can’t stop raving π bin doing this for almost a month now and already thougt iit was great after the first time. NOW after my skins turnover cycle (more or less) I am stunned. For me, this is my holy grail concerning pore care. Can’t thank you enough for sharing this advice π
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Thank YOU for sharing your experience with it! This pleases me!
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Can you elaborate more on what a carrier oil should be? I used vitamin E and this did not work for me whatsoever. It actually feels like my pores are less likely to give up what’s inside.
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Yes, I wouldn’t use vitamin E in straight form for any reason really–I find it awfully sticky and very difficult to spread or massage around. It can also be very clogging. By carrier oil, I mean the kind of oil that’s generally used as a base for oil products (rather than as a fragrance agent or other type of oil that must be diluted). Relatively neutral and inexpensive.
I generally stick to commercial cleansing oils, as they tend to be formulated to have enough lubricity to massage without trouble and rinse off easily (and since this is a wash off procedure, it doesn’t really matter what the long-term benefits of the oil would be). The bases that work the best for me for cleansing oils are mineral oil or olive oil, though the camellia oil one from the linked SanDaWha cleansing oil works really well too. Some oils that are based in synthetic esters work really nicely too, like Hada Labo Gokujyun, Amorepacific, and Sulwhasoo cleansing oils.
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