• The Best of 2020: Health, Fitness, and Haircare Faves

    In the first installment of my Best of 2020 list, I mentioned how the events of 2020 forced me to learn how interconnected all of our pursuits are and how important our habits can be for keeping our heads above water, mentally.

    Two of the three favorites in this list are health and wellness products, so before we go any further, I need to give a disclaimer. I am not a doctor, a dietitian, a nutritionist, or a certified physical trainer. The reviews and recommendations I’m making are not a substitute for medical advice. YMMV still applies here. As with my skincare reviews and recommendations, these are based on my layperson research and personal experiences, and on the anecdotes of friends and readers.

    With that being said, my 2020 favorites have done a lot for me, and that’s why I’m sharing them. So let’s dive in!


    Some of the products featured in this post were provided by the brands for review. This post contains affiliate links, which allow me to earn a small commission on purchases made through those links. Affiliate links are marked with an asterisk(*).


    Goli Apple Cider Vinegar Gummies

    The US supplement industry is minimally regulated and full of very questionable claims. There’s always some much-hyped alleged panacea making the crunchy blogger and biohacker rounds. To me, apple cider vinegar (ACV) always seemed to belong to that category. It’s hard not to side-eye a supplement whose proponents claim it can do just about anything: control blood sugar (and therefore help manage diabetes), improve digestion, aid in weight loss, lower high blood pressure, reduce the risk of certain cancers, and even make your hair and skin prettier.

    We are not going anywhere near any of the medical claims around diabetes, blood pressure, or cancer, because oh my God we’re not going to do that. Neither can we talk about using ACV topically on hair or skin, because I don’t do that. What we can talk about, however, are the more minor but still important ways that taking ACV has helped to optimize my insides.

    Optimizing my insides was one of my goals of 2020.

    Apple cider vinegar is made by using yeast and bacteria to ferment apples, turning them into vinegar. The fermentation process, as we know from fermentation in skincare, breaks compounds down into smaller and theoretically more bioavailable ones, maximizing the benefits of applying or consuming the substance in question. Fermentation also creates new compounds, some of which may deliver additional benefits. Finally, in unfiltered apple cider vinegar (and other fermented products like kombucha), the “mother”–the little slimy clump of bacteria starter that catalyzed the fermentation process–is a probiotic that might improve the bacterial makeup of the gut microbiome.

    This last part is important. Within the more pseudosciencey, snake oily corners of social media, “leaky gut syndrome” and other gut flora-related buzzwords abound, but while the claims made in those shadowy corners are outrageous, there appears to be more than a grain of truth to the idea that gut flora can have a significant effect on health. The ecosystem in our guts appears to influence our ability to digest and metabolize what we consume, which can impact body weight and efforts to change it. Gut flora also affect inflammation and the immune system, with effects potentially reaching as far as the brain.

    This is a fairly recent area of research, so there are still more questions than answers. And of course taking a probiotic supplement isn’t going to magically fix everything in our bodies that might be negatively affected by our intestinal ecosystems. That’s kind of the point of this section of best products, though. All or nothing is a counterproductive approach to take, whether in skincare, health, or anything else in life. The accumulation of smaller positive changes makes a bigger difference in the long run than expecting miracles that never happen and giving up when they don’t.

    Since I started taking the Goli ACV gummies, however, I have noticed an accumulation of several small changes that add up to…a six-gummy-a-day habit, at this point.

    As with anything you’re considering putting on your face or in your body, check the ingredients first!

    The most significant change I’ve noticed since I started taking these last year is my digestion. The ACV seems to have moderated my digestive process. Things now move along at a steady, reasonable pace: No sudden stops, no unexpected acceleration. It’s like the Platonic ideal of a four-lane highway. (If you knew my digestive history, you’d see what an impressive difference this makes to my quality of life.) And the digestive process…concludes…in a more pleasant and effortless fashion than I’m used to. Sorry for the euphemisms. This isn’t really something I ever expected to discuss in a public space, much as I and my girlfriends talk about this stuff between ourselves.

    Claims about ACV’s usefulness for weight management run rampant online. I’ve even seen some people specifically promoting Goli gummies as an appetite suppressant. So before I explain the next benefit I’ve noticed, I want to make it very clear that I neither use these (or view them) as appetite suppressants, and I don’t think appetite suppressants are a good idea anyway. I do have thoughts on weight management and nutrition, but my thoughts are more along the lines of finding the balance of macros that works best for you and is sustainable for your lifestyle in the long run.

    However.

    A few weeks after I started taking the Goli gummies, I realized I’d almost completely stopped craving sugary and starchy foods. I’ll still enjoy a cookie or a baked good or some bread once in a while, but the thought of carby treats doesn’t fill me with longing. I find myself not thinking about starchy snacks at all in between meals. I had previously been going through a protracted, months-long, “give me every single chip and bread you can, and while you’re at it, I need two packs of Hawaiian rolls also” phase, so the change was striking.

    There’s some interesting circumstantial evidence to support the hypothesis that gut microbes may influence our food cravings, potentially inducing their hosts (us) to alter our diets in such a way that we end up providing the more dominant species in our digestive system with the food that suits them best. The idea that bacteria in our digestive systems may be responsible for our uncontrollable longings for soft, buttery warm Hawaiian rolls is terrifying but does make sense.

    I talk about the effects of these gummies pretty often with readers who’ve been taking them and have learned I’m not the only one who’s experienced a reduction in sugar and starch cravings–it’s actually fairly common. With that being said, it isn’t an absolute. Others haven’t noticed a change to what they want to eat. My entirely unsupported hypothesis is that the difference lies in why people crave sweet or starchy foods. Some of us apparently crave them because our gut bacteria tell us to. Others may crave them for different reasons.

    Speaking of sugar and starch, I’ve never handled them particularly well. My ideal diet heavily emphasizes proteins and produce, with very little pasta or bread, because historically, carbs make me incredibly sluggish after consumption. This is most likely a blood sugar thing, which is why I found it interesting that after I started taking the Goli gummies regularly, I don’t have that problem anymore after an occasional pasta meal. My energy levels overall feel much more even; I’ve stopped crashing at midday the way I always have.

    Again, anyone else’s experience with these will vary, just as everyone’s experience with skincare varies. My experience with these (delicious, delicious) gummies has been overwhelmingly positive, and so has the experience of many people I’ve talked to, but it’s by no means universal. If you are interested, I would suggest giving them at least one bottle’s worth of time to see how they work out for you. If they work out well, you might find your health improving in noticeable ways! And if they don’t, they are at least super delicious and won’t destroy tooth enamel like drinking ACV can.

    • Get them at Goli.com*; my affiliate code FIDDYSNAILS currently gives 37% off of a la carte orders and 52% off of first-time subscription orders.

    Bala Power Ring, Bala Bangles, and Home Fitness

    I’ve anchored this section around one particular brand, but in reality, this section is about more than just Bala and their delightfully aesthetic weights (which we will get to in a bit). This section is about the joys I’ve found in taking better care of my body, and how it’s helped me stay on an even keel through what has turned into almost a full year of incredible highs, incredible lows, and much more pressure to perform than I can ever remember experiencing before. This section is also about how overcoming our self-limiting internal narratives can dramatically expand the scope of our lives.

    Pretty much my entire life, I’ve thought of myself as someone who hates working out and who would never be a “fitness person.” I was terrible at PE as a kid. I could never climb the rope higher than a few feet or run a mile for a fitness test without either cheating, finishing last, or feeling like I was going to die afterwards. One of my least favorite childhood memories is getting hit right in the face with a kickball. I only ever went to the gym as an adult if dragged, and my resentment about being dragged to the gym played a substantial role in at least one breakup.

    All this is to say that no one was more surprised than me by the enthusiasm I found myself bringing to home workouts. I discovered that I love fitness so much I’ve started talking about it on my Instagram as well. I have an entire story highlight for workout posts, and hearing friends and social media followers tell me that I’ve inspired them to start working out makes me just as happy as being told that I’ve inspired someone to wear sunscreen every day or to wash their face every night. What started as an occasional half hour of gentle stretching to alleviate back and shoulder pain has turned into regular power yoga, barre, Pilates, and HIIT workouts and an entirely new and more rewarding relationship with my body.

    No sugarcoating: I originally branched out from my occasional restorative yoga practices into other workouts out of sheer vanity. One of the reasons I love skincare is the feeling of control it gives me over the appearance of my skin, and one of the reasons I love fitness is the feeling of control I’ve now gained over the appearance of my body. I might have been born with the stereotypical East Asian concave butt genes, but thanks to squats, lunges, donkey kicks, gradually increasing weights, and copious amounts of protein, I no longer have a concave butt in jeans.

    Which brings us to hyper-aesthetic fitness brand Bala and the weights they gifted me last year.

    You might not even know they’re weights unless you were already familiar with the brand.

    When it comes to skincare, I freely admit that I need more than just effectiveness and utility in my products. I need a sense of joy, some fun factor that will keep me coming back for more even on days I wouldn’t otherwise feel like putting in the effort. In skincare, that fun factor sometimes comes from an interesting ingredient story and sometimes from a product’s aesthetic appeal or sensory experience. In fitness, I find some of it in the Bala Power Ring and Bala Bangles that I add to my workouts.

    It may look like a steering wheel (and you can hold it like one for certain movements), but the Bala Power Ring is actually a 10 lb cross between a dumbbell and a kettlebell, and made to fit easily in to existing workout routines. I hold it in front of me for squats, lunges, and the endless variations on the plié that make up some barre classes: it adds just enough extra weight to increase the difficulty level of a familiar workout, and the act of holding it up helps keep my core engaged, which has improved my balance by leaps and bounds. The Power Ring’s slim profile makes it easy to lay on my chest while I’m doing core work on the floor, too, making every crunch-type move count far more. The possibilities are almost endless. While I do wish Bala had heavier versions now that I’ve advanced far enough in fitness to want heavier options, I’ve recently realized I could probably manage holding two at a time instead of one if I really want to crank up the resistance.

    Similarly, the Bala Bangles wrist and ankle weights are extra-cute ways to add a little extra challenge to bodyweight workout routines. They only range from 0.5 to 2 lbs right now, so I don’t rely on them for serious strength building (I have heavier ankle weights to stack on top of them for that), but I almost always wear them for barre, yoga, and even HIIT routines, to push a little bit harder than I could without them. They stay put on me even during squatty jumpy large range of motion cardio bursts, and they’re easy to keep clean and non-smelly thanks to the silicone outer coating. Plus, their cuteness makes me happy, and they now also come in lavender. Which I am extremely tempted to get.

    As I mentioned, I started working out for vanity. It didn’t take me long to love exercise for the sake of exercise, though. The sense of accomplishment and growth is addictive. It feels incredible to be able to do something easily that used to feel completely impossible, and knowing that growth is possible transforms the burn of an intense workout from a form of mild torture into something that I look forward to and actively seek out.

    Don’t get me wrong. I like having a hint of a booty, and I really like having defined shoulders and upper arms. But I love being able to carry a full laundry sack one-handed, turning down help when I’m walking to my door with both hands full of heavy groceries, and flinging a full 13 gallon kitchen trash bag up and over a gate and into the dumpster without a hint of struggle. The knowledge that I did that, I made my body capable of doing these things, has been as positive for my mental health as the actual work has been for my physical health. Especially in a year when so many things got put on hold and so many normal aspects of life felt stagnant or nonexistent, growing and moving forward in something as tangible and ever-present as my physical form were priceless.

    It’s not something I suggest everyone take up to the extent I did. I’ve been privileged enough to work from home through the pandemic and to be able to afford to subscribe to several fitness apps (current favorite being the Peloton app for its huge library of fun, easily filtered classes, which include Bon Jovi power yoga). But in conversations with friends and readers at a variety of different ability and commitment levels, we’ve all agreed that anything is better than nothing. Even seemingly minor growth and improvement act as both reward and powerful motivator. Some of my friends have made significant overhauls to their lifestyles after we started sharing our workouts with each other and cheering each other on. Others are on their way. And all the lifting, stretching, burpee-ing, and debriefing afterwards has brought us closer together in a very positive way.

    Aquis Prime Water Defense Prewash

    Finally, I’m going to make the world’s most awkward segue and bring the conversation back to beauty, because I have one more item that a) didn’t fit with the skincare theme of the first part of the Best of 2020 series, and b) didn’t fit the length of that post, which already clocked in at over 5,000 words. ACV gummies and fitness accessories deal with the body, and hair grows on our bodies, so here’s my favorite new haircare product of the last year. Also, this fits the “head above water” metaphor I used at the beginning of this post.

    Good way to lighten the mood back up after that lecture about fitness, right?

    I love Aquis microfiber hair turbans*. I love them so much that I own three, only one of which was a gift from the brand (and that one was gifted after I’d already purchased my first one anyway).

    When I bought my first Aquis turban, it came with a mini bottle of something called a Water Defense Prewash, which seemed like a pointless extra step to me, but which I figured I’d try out anyway, given that it was free and already in my possession.

    Hair is weaker and more prone to breakage when it’s wet, which can be a problem considering how we have to get our hair wet to keep it clean on a regular basis. As my hair gets longer due to the whole “salons are closed and I refuse to trust myself to cut my own hair so I guess I’ll just wait, growing more and more Cousin It-like by the day” thing, I’ve noticed it breaking and snapping more often after a wash. The Water Defense Prewash is supposed to protect hair from that.

    The main ingredient in the product is amodimethicone, which my friend and legitimate beauty chemistry expect Michelle Wong at Lab Muffin Beauty Science has declared her favorite hair ingredient. As Michelle explains, amodimethicone selectively attaches to more damaged sections of hair, forms a durable protective film, yet resists buildup, resulting in increased softness, shine, and strength, without a reduction in volume.

    And there’s plenty of it in here.

    To use, you spray the product on hair and brush it through a few minutes before getting in the shower. (I usually do this, then do my lash extension shampoo and cleansing oil steps, then start the shower and get in when it’s warm). After that, you shampoo and condition as usual.

    Hair can show the effects of the products used on it more or less immediately, and oh my God. My first use of the Water Defense Prewash was a revelation. I could feel the extra silkiness in my hair when I was rinsing. That silkiness persisted through a quick comb-through with a wide-toothed comb after my shower. It then lasted through the next day, all the way to my next wash. My hair felt smooth and soft and looked noticeably shinier than usual. And that is why I now own a very large bottle of this stuff.

    It isn’t cheap, so I don’t use it every time I shampoo. I reserve it for a couple of times a week, particularly for shampoos after which I’m planning to heat style my hair. Even though I don’t use it every night, however, the breakage protection lasts. I almost never have to cut hair off of my vacuum’s roller brush anymore, the hair mice in my shower drain take several times longer to grow than they used to, and my hair overall looks and feels much healthier at all times.

    It’s good stuff. It sparks joy. And so it stays.

    I’m publishing this post on Lunar New Year’s eve, which feels like a bonus new beginning for a year that has already felt much more hopeful than the last. I plan to keep on enjoying the products I talked about in this post and the previous one, but I’m also looking forward to seeing what new things I find to love this year.

    Happy 2021!

  • The Best of 2020: Skincare Faves

    You know how I know 2021 is going to be a better year than 2020? Because it’s January and I not only remembered that I want to write a best of 2020 roundup, but am actually doing it instead of pushing it aside for so long that it becomes pointless to even publish it (who wants to read a 2020 roundup in May 2021?). That’s why.

    This will be a broader Best Of list than I’ve done before, because one of the lessons I learned in 2020 was how interconnected all of our pursuits are, and how important all of them can be for the maintenance of our overall mental health and well-being. During normal times, it’s easy to forget how much our mundane everyday decisions can affect us. During abnormal times, their impact becomes clear.

    One thing I won’t be doing in this year in review is going over the worst of 2020. Our personal worst-of lists are no doubt a mile long and include a lot more than just some skincare duds. I’d rather start out positive. So let’s get down to it–my picks for the best skincare, haircare, health, and fitness products that I tried in 2020!


    Some of the products featured in this post were provided by the brands for review. This post contains affiliate links, which allow me to earn a small commission on purchases made through those links. Affiliate links are marked with an asterisk(*).


    The Best of 2020: Skincare

    I’m no stranger to the use of skincare as a tool for managing mental health–I literally wrote a book about it. And since I already have a well established practice of using skincare as part of my self care routine (and I work from home anyway), very little changed about it this year, even as we moved into virtual schooling and shelter in place orders.

    The fact that my routine didn’t change did show me something important, though. Throughout this year, I’ve been thinking hard about how beauty content often inadvertently reinforces cultural beauty standards–it feels almost impossible to completely strip that messaging out of our content. I struggle with walking the fine line between providing information that readers can use to maintain or alter their appearance if they choose to, and accidentally signaling that I believe everyone should (which I don’t agree with at all).

    Privately, I also struggle with the question of whether I’m really doing all of this for my own enjoyment, or if there is still a substantial part of me that adheres to my routine to better fit into those cultural beauty standards. Whether I’m doing this for myself or whether I’m doing it for the gaze of others, in other words. The fact that I continued to enjoy my routine over months of hardly ever seeing another person helped answer that question. I am doing this for me. That felt good to learn. Anyway, here are the products.

    COSRX Advanced Snail Cleanser, Dual Essence, and Sheet Masks

    If you’ve been reading my blog for a while, you’ll know my love for COSRX runs deep and long. Their Advanced Snail 96 Mucin Power Essence and Advanced Snail 92 All In One Cream occupy permanent spots in my routine; I don’t want to imagine doing skincare without them. This love for those products actually made me fret more than I would have otherwise when I learned about the new additions to the COSRX Advanced Snail line: a cleanser, a brightening “dual essence,” and sheet masks.

    I should have been happy!

    COSRX Advanced Snail Mucin Gel Cleanser

    I worried most about the cleanser. The selection of low pH cleansers has come a long way since I first got into skincare, but I still get excited when I find another good one and disappointed when one doesn’t work out.

    According to both the brand and the pH strips* I use, the Advanced Snail Mucin Gel Cleanser is about a pH 6.5, which puts it a little higher than some like, but low enough for my skin and tastes. In place of SLS and SLES, it uses a blend of milder surfactants like coco glucoside to further minimize the risk of drying out skin. And, with its dense, slippery gel consistency, (for my skin) perfectly balanced cleansing powers, and crisp citrus scent, it’s an actual joy to use. I look forward to use it every morning and every evening. I’ve said it before: I find joy in a cleanser exceptionally important, because on days when I feel so low that I don’t even want to wash my face, having a cleanser I look forward to using is what gets me to do my routine. As a final bonus, the generously sized tube will last me a long time, even with twice-daily use.

    COSRX Advanced Snail Mucin Gel Cleanser ingredients: Water, acrylates copolymer, butylene glycol, glycerin, disodium laureth sulfosuccinate, sodium cocoyl isethionate, 1,2-hexanediol, coco glucoside, lauryl betaine, snail secretion filtrate, arginine, tromethamine, potassium cocoyl glycinate, fragrance, carbomer, sodium chloride, ethylhexylglycerin, acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, sodium polyacrylate, disodium EDTA

    CosDNA analysis

    COSRX Advanced Snail Mucin Power Sheet Mask

    Back in 2016, COSRX launched their first sheet mask, the Holy Moly Snail Mask. Though not without its flaws, most notably the so-so mask material that interfered with its ability to cling snugly to skin, the Holy Moly Snail Mask delivered exceptional moisturizing effects. I liked it, but not enough to keep it in my regular rotation. Last year, the brand released new propolis*, centella, and hydrating sheet masks, but while I enjoyed all of those, I found the $6 single mask price too high to comfortably recommend them–lots of other masks offer comparable quality for less than half that price.

    It’s okay, I figured. COSRX doesn’t really need to make amazing sheet masks too. Lots of other brands make great sheet masks but not great daily use products; there’s no point expecting one brand to do it all.

    Then came the Advanced Snail Mucin Power Sheet Mask.

    Oh my God. These masks are what I originally hoped the Holy Moly Snail Masks would be. Soft, pliable sheets absolutely coated in a thick, viscous gel essence that feels immediately calming and protective on skin. I’m almost done with my second box of these (COSRX sent me my first box, and I went and hastily ordered myself a second box before I’d finished the first). They come in especially handy when my skin feels irritated or compromised. They’ve played a key role in quickly calming the eczema flare I recently suffered along my jaw. They leave my skin smooth, calm, even, and absolutely bursting with moisture all the way through the next day. I’m also pretty sure regular use of these masks is why the guy that works at the smoothie stand near my place keeps calling out to me with compliments about my skin when I walk by.

    The Advanced Snail Mucin Power Sheet Masks are a little big for my face, but that’s quickly remedied with a few snips of my sheet mask scissors*. Their tea tree oil scent is a bit antiseptic, but the TTO may also help further calm inflammation, so I’m willing to live with it. And at $20 for a box of 10, these are the right price and came at the right time.

    COSRX Advanced Snail Mucin Power Sheet Mask ingredients: Water, butylene glycol, glycerin, snail secretion filtrate, 1,2-hexanediol, panthenol, hydroxyacetophenone, hexylene glycol, xanthan gum, dipropylene glycol, sodium polyacrylate, allantoin, hydroxyethylcellulose, sodium hyaluronate, disodium EDTA, dipotassium glycyrrhizate, melaleuca alternifolia (tea tree) leaf oil, polyglyceryl-10 laurate, polyglyceryl-10 myristate

    CosDNA analysis

    COSRX Advanced Snail Radiance Dual Essence

    I reviewed this multifunctional Advanced Snail 96 Mucin Power Essence alternative not long ago, so I won’t say much more about it here. Instead, I’ll end this COSRX section with an anecdote.

    I finished my first bottle of the Advanced Snail Radiance Dual Essence without regrets and without plans to get any more until the weather warmed up. Then my friends over at COSRX decided to send me a fresh shipment of products. Namely, the entire complete Advanced Snail line. This meant a second bottle of the Advanced Snail Radiance Dual Essence fell right into my lap.

    Anyway, I took the second bottle of the dual essence out of the box to take some photos of it. When I finished, instead of putting it back in the box and the box back in my beauty closet as planned, I unthinkingly put the bottle into the basket that holds the opened products currently in my daily rotation. That same night, doing my routine, I unthinkingly used it on my face. I didn’t realize my mistake until a step or two later. At that point, I figured, welp, already opened it, might as well keep using it. And so it remains in my routine, and I can’t say I’m mad about that at all.

    COSRX Advanced Snail Radiance Dual Essence Ingredients: Snail secretion filtrate, butylene glycol, niacinamide, 1,2-hexanediol, betaine, panthenol, water, glycerin, limnanthes alba (meadowfoam) seed oil, helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed oil, allantoin, carbomer, macadamia ternifolia seed oil, sodium polyacrylate, sodium hyaluronate, inulin lauryl carbamate, arginine, argania spinosa kernel oil, xanthan gum, sodium surfactin, ethylhexylglycerin, glutathione

    CosDNA analysis

    107 Everyday Plump Hydro Cream

    At any given moment, I have half a dozen or so moisturizers in my active rotation. You might assume that’s because I’m not very picky about moisturizers and will use anything that has “cream” in the name. If you assumed that, you’d be wrong. I have a large selection of moisturizers open because I’m very picky about them on a day-to-day basis. I’m especially exacting about my choice of day cream. My skin fluctuates from normal to dry-ish depending on my recent actives use, and our humidity levels fluctuate from pleasantly moist to mummification-level dry, depending on whether the Santa Ana winds are blowing, so I give myself several options.

    The cream I choose to use in the morning must do the following:

    • Deliver enough humectant hydration and emollient moisture to keep my skin soft and comfortable all day
    • Dry down quickly, so I don’t have to wait 30 minutes before I can put my sunscreen on, since sunscreen needs at least 15 minutes to dry before I can then proceed with makeup
    • Dry down thoroughly: no oily residue allowed
    • Mix smoothly with the NIOD Photography Fluid Opacity 12%* that I like to use with my morning moisturizer for a luminous effect
    • Sit well under my choice of sunscreen for the day (usually Missha All Around Safe Block Aqua Sun Gel or Biore UV Aqua Rich Watery Essence*), no pilling or flaking allowed
    • Feel nice and make me happy

    Ideally, my morning moisturizer will also contain some ingredients that provide benefits beyond simple hydration and moisturization.

    107 Everyday Plump Hydro Rich Cream does all these things and does them beautifully.

    In a charmingly minimal jar that stacks well with all the other creams in the baskets.

    107 founder (and my dear friend and provider of many care packages stuffed full of terribly addicted Korean snacks) Chloe Kwak developed the brand around its signature ingredient, the traditionally brewed 5- and 7-year aged Hanega vinegar that has been made by her partner’s family for over thirty generations. Using the vinegar topically had helped clear up Chloe’s eczema, which inspired her to incorporate it into a line of products suitable for her own dry and sensitive skin.

    A few years and one rebranding later, here we are, with a moisturizer that actually fits all of my daytime criteria while also providing enough richness to make it suitable for my nighttime routine as well. It’s also absolutely saving my face right now as I nurse it through an eczema flareup.

    This glossy, luscious-feeling cream melts softly into my skin, quickly replenishing hydration and laying a veil of deceptively light-feeling moisture on top. Despite how quickly and thoroughly the Everyday Plump Hydro Cream sinks in, that moisture lasts all day, even under alcohol-heavy sunscreens, even on extremely arid days, and even under alcohol-heavy sunscreens on extremely arid days. It’s one of the few moisturizers that doesn’t burn when I’m having an eczema flare-up–which I’m going through right now–so I lean on it frequently when my face is pissed off. It’s also rich enough for me to enjoy using it at night, when I like a heavier final layer over my serums and sheet mask.

    At first glance, the Everyday Hydro Plump Cream can seem a little bland and boring, primarily (at least for me) due to the lack of scent. But closer look at the ingredients list reveals not just moisturizing ingredients to baby my skin right now, but also a number of more exciting ingredients that might help to keep it baby for longer.

    107 claims that its signature ingredient, traditionally brewed vinegar fermented for at least seven years under extremely exacting conditions, helps strengthen skin via its amino acid content. It also contains some naturally occurring alpha hydroxy acid content as a result of the fermentation process. In this cream, I don’t expect any notable exfoliation from the AHAs, but their secondary function as a humectant is always welcome. And Hanega Vinegar ferments their vinegar with an array of traditional medicinal herbs more commonly associated with luxury brands like Sulwhasoo.

    Most exciting for me is the fermented ginseng root. I’ve long been a fan of ginseng for the effects that a good ginseng product has on my skin: my favorite ginseng serums and creams noticeably increase my skin’s elasticity and appearance of density while evening out and brightening up my skin tone so that I wake up looking like I already have BB cream on. Fermentation, meanwhile, may make the beneficial compounds in the fermented ingredients more accessible to skin by breaking them down into smaller components. So the fact that the Everyday Plump Hydro Cream has fermented ginseng root extract in it really gets me going.

    Short-term use of this cream delivers the expected hydrating and moisturizing effects. After using it almost exclusively for several weeks at a time, I also notice an increased bounce and overall glow to my complexion, even when I’ve been skipping most other steps to avoid potential irritation. I’m on my second jar now and see no reason to stop using it, basically, ever.

    107 Everyday Plump Hydro Cream ingredients: Water, butylene glycol, glycerin, cyclopentasiloxane, helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed oil, squalane, bacillus/corchorus olitorius leaf ferment filtrate, PEG/PPG-18/4 copolymer, isostearyl isostearate, 1,2-hexanediol, cetyl alcohol, aluminum starch octenylsuccinate, cyclohexasiloxane, polysorbate 60, dimethiconol, glyceryl stearate, PEG-100 stearate, sorbitan stearate, lactobacillus/soymilk ferment filtrate, lactobacillus/punica granatum fruit ferment extract, arginine, acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, lactobacillus/panax ginseng root ferment filtrate, simmondsia chinensis (jojoba) seed oil, panthenol, trehalose, allantoin, sodium hyaluronate, polyglutamic acid, pyrus communis (pear) fruit extract, beta-glucan, rosa damascena flower water, prunus persica (peach) fruit extract, hedera helix (ivy) leaf/stem extract, pimpinella anisum (anise) fruit extract, vanilla planifolia fruit extract, vinegar, cucumis melo (melon) fruit extract, phenoxyethanol (0.52%)

    CosDNA analysis

    Missha Time Revolution Red Algae Treatment Essence

    I think I would have been a lot more upset about the reformulation of my beloved Hada Labo Gokujyun Premium Lotion if Missha’s Time Revolution Red Algae Treatment Essence hadn’t fallen into my lap at the perfect time. This hydrator dominated my skincare routine (and my skincare thoughts and skincare dreams) for much of fall and winter 2020.

    Also, that is a sexy, sexy bottle.

    Per Missha, this product contains only one ingredient: red algae extract, fermented for 100 days.

    The single-ingredient concept, which I talked about a bit for Vogue, is a good introduction to the subtleties of cosmetics ingredients. While this extract can be listed as a single ingredient, in reality it will contain several components: the actual biological matter extracted from the source plant, the solvent into which the biological matter is extracted, and a preservative. (This is separate from the preservatives you’ll find in the ingredients lists of a finished product. The preservative included in the extract is there to preserve the extract itself in its status as a raw ingredient, while the preservative system in a finished product is included in proportions calculated to preserve the formulation as a whole.)

    Products like these are a gamble. With such a high concentration of the featured ingredient, it could be spectacular for those whose skin responds well to that ingredient. But it could also be a total bust that’s hardly any different from water, especially if the extract itself isn’t particularly potent.

    The Red Algae Treatment Essence is spectacular for me. Thicker than water, this scentless and incredibly slippery liquid glides over skin like silk and sinks in almost immediately. It hydrates my face almost as much as the Hada Labo Gokujyun Premium Lotion, which was basically a sheet mask in a bottle for me, and it leaves the surface of my skin super smooth and bouncy. It also layers well. I’ve patted on three and even four layers on very arid days without noticing any stickiness or residue buildup. My point is that it performs like a hydrating toner but with the added textural and potential antioxidant benefits of a sea kelp serum. I really, really love seaweed extracts, and effects like what I get from this essence are why.

    On their website, Missha actually does list the extract components separately, which I find very helpful:

    Missha Time Revolution Red Algae Treatment Essence ingredients: Chondrus crispus extract, water, glycerin, 2,3-butanediol, 1,2-hexanediol

    CosDNA analysis

    NIOD Fractionated Eye Contour Concentrate (FECC)

    Oh, NIOD. Again with the wordy, self-consciously Sciencey™ product names.

    As much as the Long Science Names annoy me, though, I can’t deny that when NIOD’s products work for me, they work amazingly well. The Fractionated Eye Contour Concentrate (FECC) does.

    It’s a “hyper-concentrated bio serum for the eye contour” that “combines 28 clinical technologies.” Okay.

    I’ve tried quite a few eye serums over the years, but until last year, the only one I’d ever used that had given me results noticeable enough to make me want to keep using it was the Amorepacific Intensive Vitalizing Eye Essence. And then the NIOD FECC came into my life to blow me away (slowly).

    Deciem sent me this product at my request: one of my longtime Instagram followers and DM friends had recommended it to me, with the caution that it had taken him a fairly long period of use before he saw results. My experience was similar. I used the FECC morning and night for two or three months before I noticed any changes. Once I did, though, I was hooked.

    The FECC is a very thin, runny liquid with a slightly more oily feel than water; I dab it around my eyes with my ring finger immediately after cleansing, then follow up with my eye cream (which is still the COSRX Advanced Snail 92 All In One Cream).

    Most of the other serum-type eye treatments I’ve tried have a noticeable hydration component. This allows them to quickly plump skin up, for an immediate but temporary improvement in surface smoothness and firmness. NIOD FECC does not do this, which meant that my first few months of use required a very large leap of faith. If I hadn’t had my friend’s recommendation in the back of my mind, I don’t think I would have continued past the second month.

    Thank my friend for the fact that I did, because around the third month, I noticed that my eye area had become visibly brighter and less puffy. A couple of people I know in person commented (unprovoked) that my eyes seemed bigger. I noticed an increased tightness and general lifted look as well. I took a month or so off in between my first and second bottles and saw a marked difference during that time. NIOD FECC under COSRX snail cream has become my holy grail eye combo: the FECC lifts, depuffs, and brightens, and the COSRX snail cream smooths and moisturizes.

    The FECC ingredients list is incredibly long and contains several categories of beneficial ingredients. A couple of note are acetyl hexapeptide-8 and acetyl tetrapeptide-5, which it shares with my beloved NIOD Copper Amino Isolate Serum 2:1 (CAIS2). Niacinamide and a couple of forms of vitamin C help with brightening. Also of note are the glycolic and lactic acids in the formula. Typically, I’d caution against using acids around the eyes, but here the acids are so far down in the ingredients that I assume they only contribute humectant effects, not exfoliation. Below, I’ve bolded some of the key ingredients.

    NIOD Fractionated Eye Contour Concentrate Ingredients: Aqua (water), glycerin, butylene glycol, propanediol, hydrolyzed yeast extract, albizia julibrissin bark extract, niacinamide, dipeptide diaminobutyroyl benzylamide diacetate, palmitoyl tripeptide-38, acetyl hexapeptide-8, acetyl tetrapeptide-5, decapeptide-22, oligopeptide-78, palmitoyl decapeptide-21, palmitoyl hexapeptide-52, zinc palmitoyl nonapeptide-14, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-50, pentapeptide-18, acetyl hexapeptide-30, heptapeptide-15 palmitate, palmitoyl heptapeptide-18, S-Mu-Conotoxin CnIIIC acetate, sodium hyaluronate, darutoside, epigallocatechin gallatyl glucoside, gallyl glucoside, ascorbyl glucoside, zinc PCA, methylglucoside phosphate, disodium acetyl glucosamine phosphate, copper lysinate/prolinate, hydroxypropyl cyclodextrin, superoxide dismutase, escin, ascorbic acid, ammonium glycyrrhizate, polyglucuronic acid, ascophyllum nodosum extract, asparagopsis armata extract, fraxinus excelsior bark extract, olea europaea leaf extract, polypodium vulgare rhizome extract, cetraria islandica thallus extract, sphagnum magellanicum extract, ruscus aculeatus root extract, centella asiatica extract, calendula officinalis flower extract, arginine, panthenol, hydrolyzed rice protein, glycine soja (soybean) protein, hydrolyzed wheat protein, hydrolyzed yeast protein, lecithin, polyacrylate crosspolymer-6, xanthan gum, cetyl hydroxyethylcellulose, silanetriol, sodium dextran sulfate, sorbitol, pentylene glycol, dimethyl isosorbide, citric acid, glycolic acid, lactic acid, lactic acid/glycolic acid copolymer, PPG-26-buteth-26, polyvinyl alcohol, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, propyl gallate, potassium sorbate, caprylyl gycol, glyceryl caprylate, ethylhexylglycerin, sodium benzoate, benzyl alcohol, phenylpropanol, dehydroacetic acid, phenoxyethanol, chlorphenesin

    CosDNA analysis

    NIOD FECC isn’t cheap. Since I only need one or two drops to do my eye area every time, however, the little 15 ml bottle lasts me almost an entire year.

    Sulwhasoo First Care Activating Serum (4th gen) and Timetreasure Invigorating Sleeping Mask

    If I remember correctly, I’ve been using Sulwhasoo products since 2016. Not a year has gone by since then that I haven’t loved some product from the brand. 2020 was no different, except that I had more time on my hands to enjoy their products but fewer opportunities to go out into public to show off the results.

    Sulwhasoo First Care Activating Serum (4th gen)

    Sulwhasoo doesn’t release new products as often as many other brands. They do reformulate products regularly, however. In my experience, most of their reformulations preserve the original feel and performance of the product, although in a few casesSnowise foam cleanser they…don’t.

    Luckily for me, the fourth iteration of the First Care Activating Serum, which I believe I first tried in its second or third incarnation, does retain everything I originally loved about the product. Intended for application as the first step after cleansing, this super lightweight gel serum speeds up absorption of whatever products I apply afterwards and, over time, brings a soft rosy glow to my skin, making me look more alive from within. That glow goes away every time I take a break from the product for longer than a week and always comes back when I reintroduce it to my life.

    Sulwhasoo US will be releasing the fifth generation of this product soon–I just started it via this year’s gorgeous limited edition Lunar New Year bottle–but for now, the fourth gen version that I’ve been happy with all year is still available on their site.

    But seriously. Look at the beauty of the LNY bottle.

    Sulwhasoo First Care Activating Serum (4th gen) ingredients: Water, butylene glycol, alcohol, glycerin, betaine, PEG/PPG-17/6 copolymer, glyceryl polymethacrylate, ophiopogon japonicus root extract, phenoxyethanol, bis-PEG-18 methyl ether dimethyl silane, PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil, carbomer, tromethamine, glycyrrhiza uralensis (licorice) root extract, fragrance, honey, juglans regia (walnut) seed extract, theobroma cacao (cocoa) extract, dextrin, lilium candidum bulb extract, paeonia albiflora root extract, rehmannia glutinosa root extract, polygonatum officinale rhizome/root extract, nelumbo nucifera flower extract, xanthan gum, ethylhexylglicerin, portulaca oleracea extract, limonene, camellia sinensis leaf extract, disodium EDTA, pheyl trimethicone, chondrus crispus (carrageenan), linalool, biosaccharide gum-1, zizyphus jujuba fruit extract, natto gum, citronellol, citral, propylene glycol, geraniol, chlorphenesin, hydrogenated lecithin, BHT, sodium dehydroacetate, potassium sorbate, citric acid, sorbic acid, tocopherol

    CosDNA analysis

    If you’re dying to get the new one in the breathtaking 120 ml red bottle, you can find it for $120 at Nordstrom*.

    Last year’s LE bottle was lovely too.

    Sulwhasoo Timetreasure Invigorating Sleeping Mask

    There are a few different levels of love that I feel for a product. If I actually finished my first full-sized container of it, then I loved it. But if I finished my first full-sized container of it, tried to move on, and found myself longing for it constantly until it returned to my life, then I really loved it.

    really love Sulwhasoo’s Timetreasure Invigorating Sleeping Mask. Which is kind of unfortunate, because that is a $200 sleeping mask, but there you go. I can’t help how I feel. This smooth, concentrated-feeling cream imparts an overnight brightness and translucency to my skin, as well as the same kind of healthily rosy glow I get from the First Care Activating Serum. But beyond that, it also gives my skin a creamy density and more fine-grained appearance than usual. It’s an effect that’s hard to describe with words but unmistakable when seen in person. I talk more about the effects, and about the multitude of extracts in this product, in my full review of the product. Here I’ll just say that I was very happy to see it included in a Timetreasure gift set that the brand sent my way around the holidays.

    A gift set that costs more than what many people pay in rent every month.

    Sulwhasoo Timetreasure Invigorating Sleeping Mask ingredients: Water, propanediol, glycerin, dimethicone, limnanthes alba (meadowfoam) seed oil, hydrogenated polyisobutene, butyrospermum parkii (shea) butter, PEG-40 stearate, alcohol, butylene glycol, 1,2-hexanediol, cetearyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, glyceryl stearate, PEG-100 stearate, nylon-12, sorbitan stearate, phytosteryl/beheyl/octyldodecyl lauroyl glutamate, jojoba esters, stearic acid, palmitic acid, fragrance, acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, honey, glyceryl caprylate, methoxy PEG-114/polyepsilon caprolactone, tromethamine, nelumbo nucifera flower extract, polygonatum officinale rhizome/root extract, rehmannia glutinosa root extract, paeonia albiflora root extract, lilium candidum bulb extract, sorbitan isostearate, polysorbate 60, disodium EDTA, ethylhexylglycerin, adenosine, cymbopogon martini oil, geraniol, hydroxypropyl cyclodextrin, phenoxyethanol, tricholoma matsutake extract, pinus densiflora leaf extract, glycyrrhiza uralensis (licorice) root extract, ophiopogon japonicus root extract, limonene, dextrin, theobroma cacao (cocoa) extract, linalool, panax ginseng root extract, hydrolyzed proanthocyanidin, hydrolyzed ginseng saponins (enzyme-treated red ginseng saponins), lithospermum erythrorhizon root extract, morus alba leaf extract, prunus armeniaca (apricot) kernel extract, farnesol, myristic acid, arachidic acid, carthamus tinctorius (safflower) seed oil, coix lacryma-jobi ma-yuen seed extract, tocopherol

    CosDNA analysis

    Sekkisei Treatment Cleansing Oil and Emulsion

    As we get to the end of this list, in the wake of my love for a $200 cream, I’m incredibly relieved to finish this off with two products that gave me distinct Sulwhasoo vibes, sometimes at distinctly not-Sulwhasoo prices. I got lucky this year to stumble into an opportunity to review Sekkisei’s Treatment Cleansing Oil and Emulsion, and I’m glad I did. I doubt I ever would have tried them otherwise.

    Sekkisei Treatment Cleansing Oil

    For years, I’ve had two great cleansing oil loves. Both are medium thickness oils that massage easily over skin, break up even stubborn waterproof makeup and water-resistant sunscreen without much effort, emulsify well, and rinse off cleanly. On the more budget-friendly end of the spectrum is Japanese drugstore brand Hada Labo’s Gokujyun Cleansing Oil, a no-nonsense option that I don’t feel bad about also using to clean my sunscreen puffs and makeup brushes. On the higher end of the spectrum is Sulwhasoo’s Gentle Cleansing Oil, which enhances the cleansing experience with fun herbal additions and a beautiful scent.

    Sitting right between them is Sekkisei Treatment Cleansing Oil, which costs a few dollars less than Sulwhasoo’s for a much larger bottle of product but retains a sense of luxury and indulgence thanks to Sekkisei’s choice of skin-friendly herbal extracts and distinctive scent. I’ve had my bottle open for several months now and am not even halfway through with it, despite using it for more than just my face. After I eventually finish this one, meanwhile, I have a second bottle to open and expect I’ll be perfectly happy to do so instead of moving on.

    Sekkisei Treatment Cleansing Oil ingredients: Mineral oil, PEG-8 glyceryl isostearate, cetyl ethylhexanoate, cyclomethicone, water, glycerin, angelica acutiloba root extract, carthamus tinctorus (safflower) seed oil, coix lacryma-jobi (job’s tears) seed oil, melothria heterophylla root extract, sesamum indicum (sesame) seed oil, tocopherol, alcohol, phenoxyethanol, fragrance

    CosDNA analysis

    Sekkisei is no longer at Costco as far as I know, but you can now find them at new K-beauty online store Plump Shop. I happen to know the team behind Plump Shop and can vouch for their products’ authenticity and their reliable order fulfillment.

    Also, the pretty pretty blue bottles add some visual enjoyment to my routine, too.

    Sekkisei Emulsion

    I feel even more strongly about the Sekkisei Emulsion than I do about the Treatment Cleansing Oil, because this is one of only two emulsions I’ve ever loved. Two pumps covers me from hairline all the way down my chest, and the milky liquid moisturizer packs a surprising amount of hydration with a lightweight and totally non-greasy finish. I find this unbelievably useful on mornings when I want extra hydration but don’t have the time or energy to add a toner or essence to my routine. It does have a noticeable initial scent of alcohol as I put it on, but the scent fades quickly, and the fragrance of the product is otherwise pleasant to me. As an extra bonus, the Sekkisei Emulsion sits really well under the sunscreens I like and dries down so smoothly that it almost doubles as a makeup primer. It’s good stuff.

    Sekkisei Emulsion ingredients: Water, alcohol, butylene glycol, glycerin, dipropylene glycol, ascorbyl glucoside, propylene glycol dicaprate, dimethicone, cetearyl alcohol, dipentaerythrityl hexahydroxystearate/hexastearate/hexarosinate, squalane, angelica acutiloba root extract, coix lacryma-jobi (job’s tears) seed extract, gentiana lutea root extract, hamamelis virginiana (witch hazel) extract, inula brittanica flower extract, melothria heterophylla root extract, paeonia suffruticosa root extract, polyphosphorylcholine glycol acrylate, tocopheryl acetate, triticum vulgare (wheat) germ oil, C13-14 isoparaffin, cellulose gum, citric acid, disodium EDTA, disodium phosphate, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, hydrogenated lecithin, hydrogenated rapeseed glycerides, laureth-7, PEG-8, polyacrylamide, polysorbate 80, sodium hydroxide, sodium methyl stearoyl taurate, sorbitan stearate, ethylparaben, methylparaben, propylparaben, fragrance

    CosDNA analysis

    My 2021 skincare routines are getting off to a gorgeous start.

    It’s the last day of January, and it took longer to write this post than I expected: the upcoming release of my book and my mask line has been taking most of my time and attention. But I’m still testing out and using products just like I always do, and I’m looking forward to sharing more with you guys this year! Let’s hope 2021 brings some new bests to our personal lists.

  • Updated Review: Missha All Around Safe Block Aqua Sun Gel SPF 50+ PA++++

    January 7, 2021 update: This product is being discontinued and reformulated, so if you love it, I suggest stocking up now. Purchase links are at the bottom of this post!

    December 22, 2020 update: It has come to my attention that I only gave this sunscreen a 3.8 out of 5 stars. Considering I’ve been using it nonstop since the time of this review and have gone through a staggering number of bottles of it, I’m raising my rating and updating my conclusion. New text is in bold below!

    The last time I reviewed a Missha sunscreen, it didn’t go well for either me or the sunscreen. Luckily, I had managed to block those bad memories out for long enough that when I was panic-shopping Amazon for a last-minute sunscreen replenishment a few months ago, I was willing to give the readily available Missha All Around Safe Block Aqua Sun Gel a shot. I’ve emptied a handful dozens of tubes of this sunscreen now, and I’m sure I’ll empty more in the future. Here’s a review.

    Freshly shot: Yet another two new tubes of the sunscreen I’ve loved the longest and the most.

    This post contains affiliate links, which allow me to earn a small commission on purchases made through those links. Affiliate links are marked with an asterisk(*).


    Missha All Around Safe Block Aqua Sun Gel Review

    Sunscreen is by far the most important element of my daily skincare routine. Sun damage causes the vast majority of visible skin aging, including coarsening skin texture, deep wrinkles, blotchy pigmentation, and drastic loss of collagen and general elasticity. I’ve long said that the best way to prevent premature skin aging is by wearing sunscreen with high UVA and UVB protection in the recommended quantity every day. For these reasons, I’m very diligent and very picky about my sunscreens.

    Purpose: Missha All Around Safe Block Aqua Sun Gel is an organic (“chemical”) sunscreen product with high UVA and UVB protection capabilities, meant for everyday use (as opposed to sport or in-water use).

    Best suited for: Normal or oily skin without alcohol or fragrance sensitivities.

    Do not use if: Your skin is prone to dryness or you are sensitive to alcohol, silicones, fragrance, or anything else in the ingredients list.

    When and how to use: Apply as the last step in your morning skincare routine before makeup. Take a generous amount (1/4 tsp is the general recommendation, based on the dimensions of a large male face; I do a bit more than a nickel-sized amount of product, or three fingers’ length) and spread evenly over face. I highly suggest using my Three Fingers method, as seen in the IG video below, to achieve the smoothest and most even coverage. Let sunscreen set for 15 minutes before applying makeup.

    Missha All Around Safe Block Aqua Sun Gel ingredients: Water, homosalate, alcohol denat., ethylhexyl salicylate, dipropylene glycol, silica, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, methyl methacrylate crosspolymer, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate, octocrylene, VP/hexadecene copolymer, acrylates/dimethicone copolymer, water, limonia acidissima extract, artemisia princeps leaf extract, camellia sinensis leaf extract, chrysanthemum indicum flower extract, cinnamomum cassia bark extract, diospyros kaki leaf extract, morus alba fruit extract, pueraria lobata root extract, centaurea vyanus flower water, helichrysum italicum flower water, thymus vulgaris (thyme) leaf water, methoxy PEG/PPG-25/4 dimethicone, Bis-PEG/PPG-20/5 PEG/PPG-20/5 dimethicone, dimethicone, acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, caprylic/capric triglyceride, sodium hydroxide, butylene glycol, cyclopentasiloxane, BHT, disodium EDTA, phenoxyethanol, caprylyl glycol, ethylhexylglycerin, 1,2-hexanediol, fragrance

    CosDNA analysis

    Notable ingredients: Since this is a sunscreen review, I’ve highlighted the UV filters in the ingredients list typed above. The Missha All Around Safe Block Aqua Sun Gel uses exclusively organic, aka “chemical” filters.

    It’s often said that chemical filters are more irritating to skin than inorganic/mineral/physical filters, but that, like so much else in skincare, is nowhere near universal. CosDNA doesn’t flag any of the filters in this sunscreen as known irritants. Personally, my skin has never had an issue with chemical filters. Many other happy chemical sunscreen users feel the same way. Others may find their skin can’t tolerate chemical filters, or at least some chemical filters. As with all skincare, YMMV.

    (If you’re pretty new to skincare and find the idea of using a “mineral” sunscreen more attractive than a “chemical” one due to the descriptors, however, please don’t let the terminology put you off from trying a chemical sunscreen out. Everything is chemicals. Also, organic/chemical sunscreens tend to achieve levels of cosmetic elegance that physical/mineral sunscreens can’t match.)

    Of more concern in the ingredients here is the alcohol denat. that occupies the third slot in the list. My personal stance on alcohol in skincare is that as long as your skin isn’t sensitive to it, it’s generally fine but can be problematic if it’s quite high up in the ingredients list. Here, it is up quite high in the ingredients list.

    In a sunscreen like this, the alcohol is presumably present to thin out the texture of the product and speed up drying time. This much alcohol can be drying, however. As noted in the “Do not use if:” section above, if you have dry skin, you may want to pass on the Missha Aqua Sun Gel. The Aqua Sun Gel also contains silica, another drying ingredient.

    There are a number of botanical extracts lower in the ingredients list. These may add some extra antioxidant protection to the sunscreen, though I don’t really consider them that notable. They’re probably not present in significant amounts.

    Missha Aqua Sun Gel sunscreen review
    Sure wish I’d noticed the cobweb on that planter before I took this photo.

    Performance

    In K-beauty jargon, a sun “gel” sunscreen has a lighter and more watery consistency than the denser, heavier sun creams. Many of my favorite sunscreens are gels. I appreciate their weightlessness and how quickly they set. Missha Safe Block Aqua Sun Gel is the epitome of a sun gel. It comes out of the tube a bit runny, spreads easily over skin, and dries rapidly to a totally clear and neutral finish.

    No white cast, and, after about 10 minutes or so, no shine. In fact, by the time I put makeup on, I can’t even feel any sunscreen on my skin at all. It disappears so completely that sometimes I get nervous. Did I put on enough? Should I put on more? A second layer? Usually I don’t, but the thought sometimes crosses my mind.

    The soft matte finish lasts all day for me, and since the sunscreen practically vanishes after application, it doesn’t interfere with my makeup, either.

    That total lack of oily residue or shine comes with a drawback, though. I bet you can guess what it is.

    Missha All Around Safe Block Aqua Sun Gel can be quite drying. There are sunscreens that let me totally skip moisturizer in the morning, like the A’Pieu Pure Block Daily Sun Cream* that I reviewed at Beautytap a while back. The Missha sun gel is not one of those sunscreens. I tried it on a bare face one day and regretted it half an hour later, as my face began slowly tightening into a desiccated husk. Putting it on over a purely water-based moisturizer doesn’t work much better, either.

    I had to experiment a bit to find a moisturizer of just the right weight to layer under it: light enough to dry down quickly and cleanly, but with enough fatty content to buffer my skin against all that alcohol. COSRX Advanced Snail 92 All In One Cream works well. Lately I’ve been using the SEKKISEI Emulsion under it, and that works perfectly.

    A typical morning routine for me: Snail, sunscreen, Sulwhasoo.

    The Missha All Around Safe Block Aqua Sun Gel smells strongly of alcohol mixed with a sort of sharp, artificial floral fragrance. The alcohol is definitely the dominant note. The scent fades by the time the sunscreen is dry, but I found it startling the first few times I used it.

    Despite these drawbacks, I find myself returning to this sunscreen time and time again. The extreme cosmetic elegance of the product combined with the UVA and UVB protection in the highest ranges allowed on Korean cosmetics labeling make it an easy choice.

    Now, almost two years after I started using it for the first time, I feel even more confident about its UV protection. The SPF labeling on products may not always be reliable, but our skin itself provides feedback in the form of freckling, tanning, and burning when inadequately protected. I’ve now used the Missha All Around Safe Block Aqua Sun Gel through two SoCal summers and many sunny beach days. I’ve gotten sunburned shoulders and bikini tan lines, but my face, neck, and chest, where I use the Missha sunscreen, haven’t changed color in the slightest, and no new spots have shown up anywhere I apply it. This is despite my frequent use of photosensitizing actives like AHAs and tretinoin. As an added bonus, the Missha sun gel is often way easier to find on my usual shopping channels than the A’Pieu sun gel that I also love.

    Conclusion

    It’s not perfect. It dries the hell out of my face if I’m not careful. But with a little attention paid to the moisturizer I use underneath, Missha Safe Block Aqua Sun Gel gives me strong everyday sun protection in an incredibly cosmetically elegant product. I’ve tried several other sunscreens since then and haven’t found anything I’ve loved nearly as much.

    Rating: 3.8/5 4.5/5

    Rating scale:

    1 – This should be taken off the market, or this failed at its one primary job.

    2 – Caused me some problems or doesn’t work very well; would not buy again.

    3 – Meh. Neither great nor bad.

    4 – Pretty good. Would buy again unless I find something better.

    5 – I’ll never be in the market for a replacement unless this one is discontinued.

    Where can I buy Missha Safe Block Aqua Sun Gel?

  • Self Care, Korean Skincare, and the Search for Inner Peace: The Official Book Announcement

    Ever since I could read, I’ve wanted to publish a book.

    I read everything I could get my hands on. Books assigned at school, books checked out from the library, books acquired for quarters at the school book fair, glossy magazines (paying special attention to the skincare and beauty editorials, because some things don’t change), cereal boxes, shampoo bottles, you name it, I read it. I loved writing, too. My third grade teacher gave my primitive Miami Vice fanfiction story an A+ and planted the idea of becoming a writer in my head. My sixth grade teacher encouraged me to apply for a young writers’ camp at the local liberal arts college; I was accepted, and I loved it.

    I flaked out on friends to read books. I skipped classes to write stories. By my twenties, I’d decided fiction writing was my thing. I think I was pretty okay at it. I went to a writers’ workshop every month, received positive feedback, sold one story for $25 to a tiny little zine. But, you know, life intervenes. I’m kind of an idiot, but the typical twentysomething struggles made me more practical. It wasn’t just about writing a book for me–I figured I could do that, and had finished a draft of a novel already–but about publishing it.

    I knew how incredibly rare it is for a writer to actually sell a book to a publisher. Then there was the fact that fiction writing is, for me, entirely too intimate. I was a lit major, so I know how much the pretend stories we tell can inadvertently reveal truths about our souls. Writing a book was doable. Actually selling it sounded much less doable, and letting anyone in the world read it and look into my soul in ways I hadn’t specifically authorized was terrifying.

    (Also, if we’re being totally honest, I mostly enjoyed describing things. Not so much the “creating interesting and consistent characters and figuring out how to arrange their motivations and actions into an interesting plot that makes logical sense” part, which seems kind of important in fiction.)

    It didn’t actually hurt to shelve my fiction publishing dreams. I just wrote less and less and eventually decided that continuing to struggle with a manuscript I’d been fighting with for years wasn’t worth it. “Writer” stopped being a part of my identity, replaced by other occupations and vocations.

    Some years later, this blog and the freelancing opportunities it created drew me back in to the writing life, but in a way that I found much more comfortable, much more authentic, and much more immediately rewarding than fiction writing ever had. And now, at the end of 2020, a year whose events would sound really fucking stupid in a work of fiction, here I am, to tell you guys: I’m publishing a book!

    What makes this miraculous-feeling turn of luck even more special to me is that it isn’t just any book. Instead, it’s a book about one of my lifelong interests–skincare–and how that interest became a lifeline for me out of depressive slumps and gave me a crucial sense of control and agency in my life. Now I get to share that lifeline with anyone in the world who chooses to pick up the book. It feels unreal.

    Practicing Self Care with Korean Skincare: Where It All Began

    Those of you who have known me from the beginning may remember my essay, “How My Elaborate Korean Skincare Routine Helps Me Fight Depression,” which appeared on the now-defunct Fashionista.com in May of 2015. In the essay, I talked at length about how my version of the “10 step Korean skincare routine” did more than just improve my skin. All the way back then, I was learning how attending to my outer appearance helped me get closer to finding inner peace. I felt privileged to explain why to Fashionista’s readers.

    My book, Skin Care for Your Soul, is kind of an extension of that essay. My routine has changed a lot in the intervening five years, but my overall approach has not. I still use skincare as a daily grounding ritual, and my routine still helps me remember to value and care for myself–now more than ever, after the ups and downs and major plot twists of the past five years. Since my publisher has graciously given me a book’s length of space to elaborate, however, I get to talk in so much more detail.

    Skin Care for Your Soul is both a self-help book and an easy-to-follow skincare guide. On the practical side, I break down the purposes and benefits of the main skincare product categories to help you figure out what to add, what to change, and how to go about creating your ideal skincare routine with the least amount of risk. I talk about my favorite, tried-and-true ingredients and the basic parameters they need to function as expected.

    Over on my Instagram, I often get questions like “how do I build a skin care routine for oily skin?”–my book will help you find those answers and make real progress in your skincare journey. As we progress through the different product categories, we’ll also discuss practical ways you can tackle deeper struggles through your skincare. I may think too much about my skincare routine, but it’s led me to revelations about how to use this supposedly superficial pursuit to heal ourselves from within.

    And because there is an ugly side to the beauty industry, I also discuss the dangers of the cosmetics industry. Self care has become a buzzword, deployed by beauty capitalism to promote the idea of retail therapy (to the corporations’ benefit, naturally). That’s not what it’s supposed to be about, at least to me. So I talk about some of the most common and insidious marketing tricks and exploitative tactics. A little knowledge goes a long way towards preventing regrettable purchases.

    Over the past few years, I’ve also become more and more aware of the need to decouple our interest in and enjoyment of skincare from toxic beauty standards. I want you guys to take care of your skin for yourselves, to use skincare and beauty (however you personally define it) in a way that enriches your lives rather than narrowing your goals to the impossible images in ads and on social media. So I talk about self image and self talk as well. We’re not in this to transform ourselves into someone else. We’re in this to benefit from becoming the best versions of ourselves. It’s different. The difference is crucial.

    I signed with my publisher, Mango Publishing, in March of this year, about a week before the Covid lockdowns began. I’ve been incredibly fortunate to have the opportunity to work on a fresh version of my original book concept safely at home during the long months of the pandemic. I wouldn’t have had this opportunity if it weren’t for all of you guys who read my blog and follow my social media, who engage with me and enjoy my posts (even when they’re kind of stupid and primarily emphasize bizarrely naughty-looking fruit or refer to pores as face sphincters). So, thank you so much for that. I hope you love my book. I wrote it for you, and for all the people like you who might someday find their inner peace (and outer confidence) through skincare.

    Skin Care for Your Soul will be released on March 30, 2021. In the meantime, you can pre-order your copy at:

    While we wait, keep an eye on my social media. I’ll be working with my publisher to share tidbits and extra tips and recommendations that you won’t find in the book, as well as news and events for everyone to join!

    I can’t wait for you to read it!

     

     

  • Sponsored: Kose SEKKISEI at Costco, a Japanese Skincare Surprise

    The universe works in mysterious ways. Sometimes you encounter a product at the wrong time and pass it by, only for that product to come back into your life at a later date, when you’re ready to appreciate it. This is what happened with me and Kose’s SEKKISEI skincare brand.

    I first encountered the SEKKISEI products a few years ago. I loved the gorgeous blue bottles and jars and found their emphasis on herbal ingredients compelling, but, at the time, not quite enough. I was too overwhelmed by other products and projects to give them a chance. I put them out of my mind. Until now.

    Costco currently carries the brand, and SEKKISEI’s US representatives reached out to ask if I’d work with them to get the word out about two of their products in particular, the Treatment Cleansing Oil and Emulsion. The timing was right. I’d just finished my book and found myself with more time and energy on my hands than I’d had in a while. I was also in a cleansing oil rut. I have my old favorites but hadn’t found anything else I’d really loved in a while. So I said yes, a package appeared on my doorstep bearing the items in question, and here we are.


    This post is sponsored by Sekkisei USA.


    I also remembered just how beautiful their packaging is.

    Intro to SEKKISEI: Claims and Ingredients

    As you might have noticed from my love of brands like South Korea’s Sulwhasoo and Taiwan’s Naruko, both of which often use extracts and formulas inspired by traditional Korean and Chinese herbal medicine, I love the herbal concept in cosmetics. Scientific research into the topical use of herbs and extracts tends to be much thinner than it is for first-line actives like retinoids and vitamin C, but I’ve never let that stop me from giving the intriguing-sounding ones a chance on my own face. With that being said, I can’t remember trying any particularly herby Japanese products, so this is a first.

    SEKKISEI emphasizes moisturization and brightening in their marketing, claiming that continuous use of their products will minimize existing dark spots, help prevent new hyperpigmentation, and increase the translucency of skin for an overall more luminous appearance thanks to the their “translucency recipe,” which includes coix seed, angelica, and melothria extracts.

    I’m not really finding much solid English-language research into the potential skincare benefits of these ingredients. There’s a hint of evidence that coix seed extract may help inhibit the formation of melanin. Some research suggests that melothria may deliver antioxidant and anti-aging benefits. I also came across an additional hint that angelica may defend against collagen degradation in UV-exposed skin. It’s not a lot, but it is something.

    My personal, anecdotal experience with coix seed extract has been very positive. I’ve used several Taiwanese products that contained this ingredient and resulted in a brighter and more translucent look, though it’s impossible to say whether that’s due to the coix seed or something else in their cocktail of extracts. Sulwhasoo uses it in some products as well. Likewise, angelica acutiloba extract appears in some Sulwhasoo products I’ve loved, most notably the Concentrated Ginseng Renewing Cream.

    For the brightening claims, however, I’m pleased to also see ascorbyl glucoside, a milder and more stable form of vitamin C, in the SEKKISEI Emulsion. Ascorbyl glucoside converts to ascorbic acid in skin, and there’s no lack of research into the benefits of ascorbic acid. It’s an excellent antioxidant, making it preventative against skin-aging free radical damage. Vitamin C is also known to increase collagen production and inhibit melanin synthesis, improving firmness and elasticity and reducing dark spots and hyperpigmentation. And consistent use yields significant results.

    So far, so good. Now on to the products!

    SEKKISEI Treatment Cleansing Oil

    It’s been a long time since I’ve truly fallen in love with a cleansing oil. I’ve been loyal to the Hada Labo cleansing oil as my budget staple and to the Sulwhasoo Gentle Cleansing Oil as my occasional splurge for years. I’ve tried others, sure, but I’ve hated even classics like the DHC Deep Cleansing Oil (which smells and feels exactly like rubbing cooking oil on my face) and found other luxury cleansing oils, like the Fresh Seaberry Skin Nutrition Cleansing Oil, just kind of okay. Then the SEKKISEI Treatment Cleansing Oil came along.

    In a big, beautiful blue bottle.

    SEKKISEI Treatment Cleansing Oil ingredients: Mineral oil, PEG-8 glyceryl isostearate, cetyl ethylhexanoate, cyclomethicone, water, glycerin, angelica acutiloba root extract, carthamus tinctorus (safflower) seed oil, coix lacryma-jobi (job’s tears) seed oil, melothria heterophylla root extract, sesamum indicum (sesame) seed oil, tocopherol, alcohol, phenoxyethanol, fragrance

    Photographed from the Costco packaging.

    CosDNA analysis

    The first thing you’ll notice about the ingredients is that this is a mineral oil-based cleansing oil. While this might not sound super exciting, I actually really like cleansing oils with mineral oil as their first ingredient. Mineral oil has gotten a bad reputation in the past decade or so, in large part because mineral oil is a derivative of petroleum, which make it easy to frame as a bad thing by people pushing the popular “chemicals are bad; natural is best” narrative. (Although crude oil is a perfectly natural substance, so mineral oil is actually a very natural ingredient!) Mineral oil is also often perceived as risky for acne-prone skin.

    Cosmetics-grade mineral oil doesn’t deserve the grief it gets. While everyone’s skin is different and there’s no such thing as a truly universal and reliable way to rate comedogenicity, research shows that mineral oil is actually very unlikely to clog pores and is also an excellent moisturizing ingredient, with molecules large enough to stay on top of skin to form an occlusive barrier against moisture loss. It’s also an inexpensive ingredient, so using it can bring the cost of a product down. On a personal level, I find mineral oil-based cleansing oils especially good for pulling out grits in my three-step pore cleansing routine.

    SEKKISEI Treatment Cleansing Oil had my heart from the first time I used it: it hits all three of the main points I look for in a cleansing oil. It’s neither too thin and runny nor too thick and difficult to spread. The moderate thickness and excellent slip make cleansing with it an easy and pleasant experience. It breaks up and lifts off even heavy, water-resistant makeup and sunscreen thoroughly. Finally, it emulsifies well and rinses cleanly. I still follow it up with a gentle foaming cleanser out of habit, but my skin actually feels perfectly fine even if I don’t.

    I demonstrated the cleanser with an explanation of why we use cleansing oils on my IGTV, but if you’d rather not sit through a nine-minute video that mostly involves me blabbering about the things I’m putting on my hand for the purposes of washing them off, I also made a short demo for this blog post. Behold:

    I caked on some chalky, water-resistant Biore UV Aqua Rich Watery Gel sunscreen and followed it up with foundation, blush, eyeshadow, and brow and lip pencil.

    To cleanse, just massage the oil onto dry skin. Once all the makeup and sunscreen is visibly dissolved, wet hand and massage gently again to emulsify. Finally, rinse. Easy!

    Clean and moist and ready to go!

    One aspect of the product that some users might have trouble with is its scent. To me, the vaguely herbal/floral fragrance of the SEKKISEI Treatment Cleansing Oil is noticeable, and it does linger for a few minutes if I don’t follow up with a foaming cleanser, but it’s pleasant enough, and I don’t find it excessively strong.

    These are big boys.

    As a final note, the bottles sold in Costco are massive. 300 ml. For reference, most cleansing oils come in 150-200 ml bottles. Having a huge bottle of a good cleansing oil comes in handy, since I often use it for other purposes besides makeup and sunscreen removal. I use cleansing oil every few days to deep clean the cushion puff I use for my sunscreen, once in a while to clean my makeup brushes, and before washing my hands if I have something on them that’s hard to wash off. I also use it to soften up scalp flakes on my son’s head when he has a seborrheic dermatitis flareup, since it’s a gentle way to loosen them before washing and brushing them out.

    SEKKISEI Treatment Cleansing Oil is available at Costco for $22.99 (regular price $35) until December 31.

    SEKKISEI Emulsion

    So remember how I said I hate a lot of the cleansing oil classics? I hate even more emulsions. Until the SEKKISEI Emulsion came along, I’d only ever loved one emulsion (Sulwhasoo’s Concentrated Ginseng Renewing Emulsion) in all the six or so years I’ve been using and reviewing Asian beauty products.

    Emulsions are liquid moisturizing products, roughly analogous to lotions in Western beauty parlance. (Japanese “lotions” are actually hydrating toners.)

    You’d think, from their lighter consistency, that emulsions would generally be lighter than creams, right? But no. Almost every emulsion I’ve tried has left an unpleasantly heavy, oily film on my skin no matter how long I wait for them to dry. After a string of emulsion fails, I’d stopped giving them a chance altogether. I still wouldn’t have, if the SEKKISEI Emulsion hadn’t been one of the two products my friend with SEKKISEI US specifically asked me to try.

    And then the Santa Ana winds happened.

    For those of you who aren’t familiar, the Santa Ana winds “are strong, extremely dry downslope winds that originate inland and affect coastal Southern California.” When they’re blowing, they bring the temperature up and the humidity way down. The past couple of weeks here have brought humidity as low as 10-15% all day long. My face felt like it was going to shrivel up and fall right off my skull.

    Desperate for an additional layer of moisture one night, I spotted the SEKKISEI Emulsion lying in a stack of newly unboxed products and thought, oh what the hell, why not. I slathered two pumps on after my sheet mask. The rest is history.

    SEKKISEI Emulsion ingredients: Water, alcohol, butylene glycol, glycerin, dipropylene glycol, ascorbyl glucoside, propylene glycol dicaprate, dimethicone, cetearyl alcohol, dipentaerythrityl hexahydroxystearate/hexastearate/hexarosinate, squalane, angelica acutiloba root extract, coix lacryma-jobi (job’s tears) seed extract, gentiana lutea root extract, hamamelis virginiana (witch hazel) extract, inula brittanica flower extract, melothria heterophylla root extract, paeonia suffruticosa root extract, polyphosphorylcholine glycol acrylate, tocopheryl acetate, triticum vulgare (wheat) germ oil, C13-14 isoparaffin, cellulose gum, citric acid, disodium EDTA, disodium phosphate, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, hydrogenated lecithin, hydrogenated rapeseed glycerides, laureth-7, PEG-8, polyacrylamide, polysorbate 80, sodium hydroxide, sodium methyl stearoyl taurate, sorbitan stearate, ethylparaben, methylparaben, propylparaben, fragrance

    In one night, my reaction to receiving these products changed from “oh for God’s sake, I really didn’t need three bottles of this stuff” to “oh my God I’m so glad I have three bottles of this stuff.”

    CosDNA analysis

    This emulsion is nothing like the slimy, greasy emulsions I’ve tried before. It sinks in quickly and completely, plumping up and moisturizing my skin while leaving nothing on the surface but a gossamer-light film and super silky feel. It added a tangible dose of hydration to my skin and layered well with the cream I added on top that night; I woke up the next morning with softer, happier skin than I’d had since the Santa Ana winds blew back into town.

    The next test was to see how well it would perform on its own as my day moisturizer.

    I’m very picky about day moisturizers. In the morning, I generally don’t use more than one or two post-cleanse steps before my sunscreen, and on most mornings, I only use the one. Just moisturizer. So my day moisturizer needs to hydrate and moisturize well enough to keep my face feeling good all day long. It has to moisturize enough to compensate for the drying effects of my usual sunscreen, the alcohol-laden but marvelously cosmetically elegant Missha All Around Safe Block Aqua Sun Gel. Despite these moisture requirements, it has to also sink in completely, without leaving any oiliness. And it has to play well with my sunscreens–no pilling or flaking allowed.

    Right before I started using the SEKKISEI Emulsion, I’d been enjoying a jar of La Mer’s The Moisturizing Soft Cream. I find the airy whipped consistency of that product delightful but occasionally felt it wasn’t quite enough moisture, especially with the Santa Ana winds active. It’s also extraordinarily expensive. So I switched it out for my new emulsion. And was wowed.

    Do not make the joke I know you want to make. SEKKISEI deserves better than that.

    Even with the humidity levels dipping to lows I’ve never seen before, even under my alcohol-heavy sunscreen, even with the alcohol in the emulsion itself, my face looked and felt great. Balanced moisture levels that withstood long walks through the dry winds, an overall satiny finish, no flaking, no roughness, not even a hint of tightness even when the air was so dry that my eyes hurt. It will take me a longer period of consistent use to gauge whether the ascorbyl glucoside and the herbal extracts really do anything in terms of spot fading and tone brightening, but the product absolutely succeeds at fulfilling its moisture claims.

    As with the cleansing oil, I do have a note on the SEKKISEI Emulsion fragrance. It’s lighter than the scent of the Treatment Cleansing Oil, and I personally like it–one of my readers pointed out that it smells like the classic Pond’s cold cream, and she’s right–but it is there. So if you’re sensitive to fragrance, this may not be the product for you. If you aren’t, though, wow. I think more people should try this product. I’ve been using it pretty much exclusively as my day moisturizer and also as an extra layer of moisture at night, and my skin feels so good.

    SEKKISEI Emulsion is available in a pack of one full size and one travel size bottle at Costco for $44.99 (regular price $75) until December 31.

    You might have noticed that I made a few comparisons to Sulwhasoo throughout this review. When I originally encountered SEKKISEI products a few years ago, I wondered if they might be a more affordable alternative to the Korean luxury brand. The herbal concepts and elegant packaging invited the comparison.

    While my internal jury is still out on the long-term effects of the products, I’m so glad to have found that the product textures, experience, and immediate effects really do compare well to Sulwhasoo. It feels great to love and be able to recommend a brand that’s accessible to far more people, especially since this brand is currently sold in person at Costco, of all places. So if you’re looking for some affordably priced staple products that feel several steps above basic, definitely check these out!

  • Thoughts on the Purito Centella Unscented Sun Controversy

    I’ve been sitting on this for about 24 hours now. Serious issues deserve serious consideration and serious responses, not hot takes and snap judgments. And the current controversy over the Purito Centella Green Level Unscented Sun sunscreen is a serious one indeed.

    Purito, clean beauty, and the SPF problem

    South Korean skincare brand Purito has amassed a loyal following of international fans–79K on their official Instagram account as of today–in part thanks to their positioning as “clean” K-beauty. Their website touts their cruelty-free and “vegan-friendly” status, their sustainable packaging choices and ongoing donations to a South Korean environmentalist organization, and their use of “safe and clean ingredients FREE of parabens, sulfates, synthetic fragrances & dyes, phenoxyethanol, triethanolamine.” In short, they’ve worked hard to hit the most popular notes in the clean beauty repertoire. So far, the strategy has seemed to resonate well with their customers.

    Screenshot taken 12/04/2020.

    Sunscreen is a perennial hot topic in clean beauty circles. People worry about the ethics of it thanks to concerns that some UV filters may contribute to coral reef bleaching, which chemistry PhD and skincare science educator Michelle Wong examines and concludes to be overblown. People also worry about claims that certain UV filters are “hormone disruptors,” generally unaware that the rat study most commonly cited in support of these claims involved rats being forced to ingest a massive amount of oxybenzone over the course of four days. The equivalent dosage in topical application on humans “would take applying sunscreen all over the entire body every day for 70 years.”

    What this means is that a “clean” sunscreen with decent cosmetic elegance and high UV protection is in high demand. Purito’s Centella Green Level Unscented Sun seemed to fit those needs, and plenty of people in the Asian skincare community embraced it. And then its actual UV protection levels came into question.

    Yesterday, Judit Rácz, the founder of cosmetics database INCIDecoder, published a blog post announcing the findings of independent testing that she commissioned in order to investigate the UV protection claims of the Purito Centella Green Level Unscented Sun.

    In the post, she explains that as a cosmetics formulator and entrepreneur herself, with a sunscreen project in development, she questioned Purito’s claim that the Centella Green Level Unscented Sun provides SPF 50+ UVB protection, given its “unusually low filter amounts.” She commissioned a series of tests at separate Polish and German labs and provides documentation of the results in the post. The tests suggest that the actual SPF provided by the Centella Green Level Unscented Sun when used at the full 2mg/cm2 dosage is around 19. Not 50+.

    That’s bad, obviously. If the independent testing results are correct, a possibility that the very similar results obtained from two separate labs seems to confirm) then that’s very bad. But how bad is it, who’s to blame, and what does it mean for users of that sunscreen and others like it?

    Potential bias disclosure

    Before we get into that, I want to take a quick moment to clarify any potential bias I might have, because that’s really fucking important when it comes to something as serious as this.

    I have no affiliation or relationship with Purito. I’ve tried some of their products over the years, liked some of them, disliked others, including a different sunscreen of theirs, and did try the Centella Green Level Unscented Sun (out of my own pocket) but had literally zero feelings one way or the other about it. It made so little impression that I don’t think I ever even posted about it anywhere. However, I also have no beef with Purito. Clean beauty isn’t my thing, but I’m not opposed to good products that happen to be marketed that way. Neither do I have any financial interest in sunscreen one way or the other. I’m coming out with a sheet mask line, yeah, but I have absolutely zero plans to create any sunscreens. I don’t want to. That’s so far out of my wheelhouse that I don’t think you can even see the idea from my wheelhouse.

    Okay. Moving on.

    Purito’s response

    As things stand right now, the evidence looks in favor of the European labs’ test results being accurate to the products they were performed on.

    Purito responded to the controversy in an Instagram post:

    Essentially, Purito did not formulate the sunscreen in-house. Instead, they contracted with a third party manufacturer to develop it to their specifications, a common practice in the global beauty industry. The Centella Green Level Unscented Sun and its labeling were tested and approved by the KFDA and went to market without issues. In response to the current controversy, Purito has paused sales of all three of their sunscreens (the Centella Green Level Unscented Sun, the Centella Green Level Safe Sun, and the Comfy Water Sun Block that I didn’t like) and ordered additional testing on all three products. It’s a pretty standard response, and I personally see no reason to complain about how they’re handling it so far.

    Who’s to blame?

    If we assume the Polish and German labs’ tests are accurate and the Centella Green Level Unscented Sun really is drastically lower in SPF than originally claimed, something is wrong. The question is, what exactly went wrong, and where?

    There are a few different possibilities.

    One possibility is that the product formulation itself is the problem. This would mean that the Centella Green Level Unscented Sun has never been SPF 50+ and has always only been SPF 19ish. In that case, the question is whether the failure originates at the manufacturer level or the brand level, and whether the mismatch between the claimed SPF and the real SPF is due to an error or to intentional deception.

    If the product formulation itself is the problem, how did it originally get recognized as SPF 50+? A likely scenario in this case would be some failure or deliberate inaccuracy from the original testing lab. This wouldn’t be the first time, nor is it a situation that could only happen in Korea. As cosmetic chemist Stephen Alain Ko reported on his Instagram last year, “one of the leading SPF and cosmetic testing labs in the United States” has been accused of falsifying SPF tests and “has been allegedly engaging in unethical behavior since 1987.” So that’s a possibility.

    Another possibility, however, is that the original product formulation was SPF 50+ (a bit doubtful, but a possibility nonetheless, since the percentages of filters in a sunscreen don’t tell the full story), but the sample(s) that were tested by the INCIDecoder-hired labs were not. A manufacturing error in a specific batch of products isn’t a new thing. The US FDA provides lot numbers for product recalls due to issues with specific batches. I’ve been squinting at the INCIDecoder blog post and test reports for a couple of hours and haven’t found any detail on specific batch or lot codes of the products sent to be tested. (If I missed it, please let me know!)

    If the faulty SPF in the Centella Green Level Unscented Sun turns out to be a batch issue, it’s likely that it arose due to a genuine error rather than an active choice to deceive.

    Whether the discrepancies between the tested and stated SPFs of the product were intentional or accidental matters, of course. The reason behind the problem will change how we view the brand, the manufacturer, and potentially even other products produced for different brands by the same manufacturer. But we don’t know yet where the fault lies. Plenty of people are asking good questions of the brand, and it’s worth waiting to see what the brand’s next move will be.

    In the meantime, there’s already outcry about this, and for good reason. If you’re using sunscreen every day, you obviously consider sun protection important, whether for health or beauty reasons or both. Sunscreens are regulated as drugs, and there’s a much higher level of trust implicit in a sunscreen’s UV protection claims than there are for, say, the more nebulous and unquantifiable claims a calming essence or anti-aging serum might make. Finding out that a sunscreen labeled as SPF 50+ is actually only SPF 19ish feels like a betrayal even if you’re not using that exact sunscreen. It can even call into question the trust you feel for your choice of sunscreen. So it’s understandable that feelings are running high right now, especially since we don’t know all the answers yet.

    I don’t see this as a reason to write off all Korean sunscreens as a whole, or all Asian sunscreens, or any other response that paints all of one country’s beauty industry with the same brush. As I’ve said again and again, Korean beauty is no more a monolith than Japanese or American or any other country’s cosmetics industry. There have been SPF testing scandals in other major markets like the US and Australia, and no country is exempt from product recalls either, no matter how stringent they claim their own cosmetics regulation to be. In 2013, Japanese brand Kanebo famously had to recall 54 products after about 10,000 customers suffered from blotchy white pigmentation loss after using them.

    What the current Purito sunscreen controversy appears to be, is an isolated failure. It may be isolated to one specific batch. It may be isolated to one specific product. It may be isolated to one specific brand. It may be isolated to one specific manufacturer. It is not, as far as we know, an indictment of an entire country’s collective beauty industry or manufacturing practices. It’s for that reason that I’m not calling this a “Korean sunscreen controversy.” It’s a Purito sunscreen controversy.

    Okay, but what do I do about sunscreen now?

    If you’ve been using the Purito Centella Green Level Unscented Sun (or other Purito products), take a deep breath.

    SPF 19 is certainly a lot lower than SPF 50+. It’s lower than I prefer in my sunscreen products too. Using an SPF 19 sunscreen is not, however, the end of the world (especially if you’re using it in the correct amount and receiving the full SPF 19 protection). It is still better than nothing. For health purposes, the Skin Cancer Foundation states that “regular daily use of SPF 15 sunscreen can reduce your risk of developing squamous cell carcinoma (SCC) by about 40 percent, and lower your melanoma risk by 50 percent.” When used in the appropriate amounts, SPF 15 sunscreen still blocks 93 percent of UVB radiation. So an SPF 19 sunscreen isn’t useless. Yes, switching to a controversy-free, higher-protection sunscreen is a good idea from this point forward, but please don’t drive yourself crazy worrying about the period of time in which you were using the Purito sunscreen.

    And if you have been using the Purito sunscreen(s) in question, remember that if you’re taking significant amounts of sun damage, it will be visible. Your skin will redden, burn, develop dark spots, and/or darken all over in response to UVB and UVA damage. Even in lab settings, SPF is measured by evaluating skin’s erythema (reddening) response to UVB. If it hadn’t been protecting you enough, you would know.

    I’ll just keep using this, thanks.

    As for me, I will say that I’m very very glad I’m still using my trusty Missha All Around Safe Block Aqua Sun Gel. My skin tans extremely quickly and can burn as well, but for the past couple of years, my face has stayed the same color, without burning or tanning, despite a ton of time out in the SoCal sun. My face has stayed the same color through beach days that left me with tan lines around my bikinis and sunburn on my shoulders. My face has stayed the same color despite heavy use of the highest possible dosage of prescription tretinoin as well as regular use of AHAs.

    So don’t freak out just yet. We need more information to know how the discrepancy between Purito’s claimed SPF and the independently tested lower SPF happened, which products were affected, and what that means. In the meantime, go back to another sunscreen you trust, and watch how this plays out.

  • Review: COSRX Advanced Snail Radiance Dual Essence

    I have a long list of worries. In that list, “COSRX discontinuing their Advanced Snail 96 Mucin Power Essence and Advanced Snail 92 All In One Cream” falls somewhere in between “never getting to pet another bunny again” and “running out of toilet paper during a toilet paper shortage”: it wouldn’t be the end of the world, but would be pretty terrible. And it is a concern. Products get discontinued all the time. Even products some of us passionately love. Even products some of us consider holy grails.

    So imagine my worry when COSRX first announced the new Advanced Snail Radiance Dual Essence. On paper, it seemed like it could be an upgrade from the OG Snail 96 Mucin Power Essence. Snails, now with added brightening! But upgrades are a crapshoot because change doesn’t always mean improvement. Also, upgrades often foreshadow the death of the original product. Which I don’t want to happen.

    (more…)

  • Self Care at the End of 2020: How I’m Surviving

    Hey, guys. We’ve been through some hell this year, haven’t we. A global pandemic, racism, more racism, violence, the politicization of the pandemic leading to the disastrous prolonging and spread of the pandemic, corruption in politics, corruption in business, and that’s all without mentioning the personal losses and upheavals many have suffered and continue to suffer as a result of some or all of the above. It sucks.

    Our Year of Suffering has brought self care front and center in many mental health discussions. I’ve been all about self care for years, obviously, so I figure it’s a good time to talk about it again. Our Year of Suffering might be about to end, according to the calendar, but the Suffering may continue. It’s a good time to get our heads on straight and figure out how we can mitigate the Suffering in the months to come.

    We’ve talked in old episodes of the Snailcast about how we disliked the corporate hijacking of the concept of self care to mean “buy yourself some more fun shit and have a bubble bath.” At its core, that’s not all that self care is. The kind of self care that will get us through yet more Months of Suffering is more about discipline than it is about indulgence. That might sound less fun, but ultimately it’ll bring us more calm, more resilience, and more peace.

    20200703_132102
    We’re growing like oddly suggestive squashes over here.

    Self care: The physical side

    It was right around this time last year that I started practicing yoga using the Daily Yoga app. I haven’t looked back since. I originally picked it up to deal with back pain, particularly lower back spasms and sciatica that I’ve suffered from since I was pregnant almost ten years ago.

    At this point, I’ve progressed far beyond the ten-minute beginner flows and slow and easy back pain practices that I started with. I can do all kinds of things with my body that I’d never thought possible (especially at forty years old), from backbends to splits to balancing on one foot without falling over, and I love it. I got the Yogi Approved app and added barre, HIIT, and Pilates to my fitness routine. I eat better, in part to support better performance during workouts. I’m in the best shape I’ve ever been.

    20201021_181806
    Plus, I get to eat so much delicious protein.

    The health benefits of exercise are beyond dispute at this point. Cardiovascular, joint, and bone health all improve with regular physical activity. There’s plenty of research demonstrating the mental health benefits of exercise as well, with explanations of mechanisms like endorphin release and the reduction of inflammation.

    Those aren’t all, though. For me, the greatest benefit of exercise comes from the tangible growth and improvement it provides. It feels incredibly rewarding and empowering to reach my goals over time (even when those goals are just things like “grow an ass” or “lay my cheek on my knee while in the full splits”). In a year when so many things seem to be standing still or moving backwards, feeling capable of producing forward growth means a lot.

    Working out isn’t always fun. Sometimes I dread it. Sometimes I have to talk myself into getting off the couch, getting out the yoga mat, and just doing it. But I never regret it when I’m done, because every session is another step forward towards my next goal.

    Self care: The mental side

    Mental self care during this pandemic often seems to fall into one of two categories. On the one hand, there’s the “KEEP DOING STUFF YOU HAVE TO DO STUFF BE PRODUCTIVE DO STUFF NOWWWWWWW” hysterical positivity. Which is what I personally lean towards, but can be toxic on its own.

    Leaning into hysterical positivity means that when fatigue hits, when we really need to get into bed with a book and a cat, guilt seeps in. Then the guilt ruins the relaxation and creates an extra mental burden to carry.

    On the other hand, there’s the “forgive yourself for not wanting to do anything” camp, which also has its good points, but is obviously counterproductive in the long run if it becomes a way of life.

    Let’s be real. These are not normal times. Most of us aren’t going out the way we used to and plenty of people aren’t making the money they used to, further limiting activity options. It’s normal and natural to have more idle days. Now that winter is coming to the northern hemisphere, it’s also normal and natural for many of us to spend more time cocooned inside, too. But doing too much cocooning and too much relaxing breeds guilt, anxiety, and depression.

    The lesson I’ve learned this year is how to balance both the need for growth and achievement with the need for rest and relaxation. How that works will be different for everyone.

    For me it boils down to having a list of things that must get done, but not breathing down my own neck to do them at specific times–as long as they do (mostly) get done when they need to be. Is everything checked off for the day? Time for guilt-free slug life. Is everything checked off for the week? That mental health day is looking mighty good, and I can come out of it feeling refreshed and ready for more.

    The light at the end of the tunnel

    With all the insane shit happening this year, it’s been easy to fall into doom and gloom. I’ve dragged myself through several depressive slumps, dragged myself out of them like a reanimated corpse digging up through a coffin lid and a century of dirt, and sometimes I feel completely exhausted.

    What’s kept me going has been the knowledge that despite all the opposition to human happiness and growth this year, good shit has still happened and can still happen. It can for all of us, but we have to keep going and we have to keep fighting. Ultimately, that’s what self care is for. It builds our strength and resilience and refills our tanks with energy and optimism so that we can keep going. That’s important.

    Oh, and about buying fun shit and taking a bubble bath? If you can, do that too. Find comfort in the little things. That way, you’ll be more ready to face the big ones.

    Happy Halloween!

  • Productivity in the Time of Coronavirus: Work from Home Tips for Newly Appointed Remote Workers

    Right now, much of the world is fucked up. The COVID-19 global pandemic has turned our lives upside down (or at least it feels that way to me). The empty shelves at the grocery store sent me into a silent emotional meltdown the first time I saw them, and I know I’m not the only one.

    As the infection and fatality numbers continue to rise in many of our countries, the best thing most of us can do is practice social distancing and respect the fact that even if we personally aren’t high-risk, others are. Taking precautions to limit our chances of spreading the virus helps to protect the vulnerable, which is why regional and national governments have been implementing emergency restrictions on public gathering. Many companies have stepped up by allowing employees to work from home. Based on current projections, at least in the US and Canada, we might be here a while. That brings us to this blog post.

    Working from home is going to be a new experience for a lot of you. It’s not always easy, either. I’ve been fortunate enough to work from home full-time since 2013, so I’ve got my personal routine down, with lots of tips to share. I also happen to know many other full-time remote workers, who’ve contributed their thoughts and tips to this post. Let’s get productive while staying healthy and socially distanced!

    Working from home: Your workspace

    So. Your office is now at home. That means that it’s time to designate a space in your home as your office, if at all possible.

    Our brains tend to wire themselves around our habits, linking specific locations with specific activities and more efficiently shifting into readiness for those activities when we enter the locations we associate with them. That’s why sleep experts recommend that we only use our beds for sleep and adult fun times, to train our brains to be ready for sleep (or adult fun times) when we get in bed. It’s also why trying to work outside of the workspace we’re accustomed to can be a challenge.

    Designating a workspace in your home is the first step to rewiring your brain for the new current reality. Ideally, you’d be able to dedicate an entire room or at least a desk as your new home office. To establish this as Your Workspace, set it up as such. This is not a place for stacks of household bills, grocery lists, the kids’ homework projects, or anything else that will remind you that you are working from home. Clear away as many reminders of domesticity as you can. “Creating a physical delimitation of where you work within your home really helps separate work time from the rest of your life,” says Mariève Inoue, freelance beauty journalist and translator (and amazing illustrator) at By Minoue and @by.minoue.

    Set yourself up as much as you can for success. Stick with “wired Internet—do not play with WiFi” if you can help it, says Tracy Robey, a Renaissance historian, journalist, and beauty blogger whose productivity powerhouse status always awes the rest of us in the Snailcast group chat. In addition, Tracy suggests “a bed for your cat (if you have one) on your desk so they let you work” as well as “a computer that’s fast enough to power like…NASA.”

    Not everyone now working from home will have the luxury of a full home office or even a spare desk, however. Over on my Instagram, several of you asked what to do if you can’t set up a physical workspace.

    The lack of a settled, dedicated workspace in your home doesn’t have to be a productivity killer. Instead, find other ways to establish your work routine and boundaries. I actually do most of my work from a corner of our dining table, because a single income in a high cost of living coastal area doesn’t really buy me an extra room, and I prefer to use the one free space in my place for yoga instead.

    What I’ve done is make a work “kit”. I keep it handy so that I can have it with me whether I’m at the table or sitting on the sofa. My kit contains my Hobonichi planner and pens, my phone and charger, my wireless headphones, sometimes some snacks, and whatever products I’m currently tasked with writing about. Yours will look different, but the concept remains the same. Keep your kit in a small basket or similar container, along with your laptop. This is now your office.

    Have pens, will travel. And by the way, these 0.4mm Pilot Frixion Point Knock erasable gel pens that I was gifted from JetPens are incredible. As are the Piske and Usagi corn sticks a friend brought me from Taiwan.

    One important caveat for those of you with limited options: the bedroom should be the last resort. As freelance writer and beauty blogger Ali from Queen of Wrong Style put it, “If you can help it, don’t work in your bedroom. I did this the first several years I worked remotely and it started to feel like I couldn’t escape my work because I used my bedroom as an office.” Associating your bedroom with work can inadvertently train your brain not to relax fully there. Conversely, it can also reduce your focus and energy, thanks to the temptations of the warm cozy bed.

    Working from home: Creating a productivity- and creativity-boosting routine

    Establishing a workspace or work kit is only the first step to rewiring your brain for maximum productivity and creativity during your stint as a remote worker. Equally critical are the habits you build to delineate the beginning and end of your workday.

    It’s easier when you work outside the home. You get dressed, leave the house, commute to your workplace, and settle down at your desk. Those physical movements and actions are a daily ritual that tells your brain it’s work time. A two-second commute doesn’t offer quite the same automatic delineation between work and home.

    As with skincare, productivity is very YMMV. The specifics of what you do to tell yourself that you’re now in work mode will vary from person to person. What won’t vary is the effectiveness of having a set pre-work ritual to get you into work mode.

    Many remote workers suggest getting dressed as if for the office, even if the office is at home and no one will see you due to Social Isolation. My number one beeb Sean, a NYC art director, told me that “when I have to work I like to get dressed. Easier to work if you’re not in PJs.” Many others concur.

    On the other hand, I personally like to be as comfortable as possible when I’m working. That means no binding, restrictive clothes. (Maybe my problem is my preference for the look of binding, restrictive clothes?) Certainly no bras if no one’s going to see the headlights anyway. “Don’t wear pants unless your chair is sweaty,” says Cat Cactus, the blogger behind Snow White and the Asian Pear, who worked from home full-time for several years.

    So I don’t get dressed. I do, however, always wash my face, apply skincare, and do light makeup (brows and blush usually), even if I’m expecting to stay in for the vast majority of the day. Then I spend a few minutes reviewing the day’s page in my planner so that my task list is fresh in my mind. This ritual gets me out of lounging mode and into “sane and productive member of society” mode.

    Nicole Hopkins, a freelance writer who blogs about beauty and yoga over at Ms Merriam (and who is a founding member of the No Pants No Bra Work From Home Club with me and Cat), shared her work prep routine:

    It’s especially helpful for days that I’m feeling overwhelmed by the amount of work I have to do or just really not feeling it. I set up my computer screen with whatever work I’m going to be doing and close everything else, then set up my Pomodoro timer. I silence my phone and put it out of sight, then take about 20 seconds to just do a couple of deep breaths and get in a headspace to be productive. Just doing that quick couple of minutes more than doubled my productivity.

    Speaking of Pomodoro timers, using this simple time management system has increased my productivity massively over the years. I’ve found it helpful for boosting motivation, creativity, and overall output. It’s also a fantastic procrastination killer. While it may not be feasible for remote workers bound to customer or client calls or frequent meetings, it works great for solitary tasks.

    The Pomodoro technique is simple. Procrastination often results from dread of a task, typically stemming from how long we think it’s going to take or how complex it is. Similarly to how bullet journaling helps us by breaking down large projects into smaller and more manageable tasks, Pomodoro timers break down the workday into smaller and more manageable chunks. The method involves working in short bursts (20-25 minutes generally), with five-minute breaks in between and a longer break after several of the short work sessions are completed.

    It’s amazing. Knowing that you’ll only have to work on something for less than half an hour and then you’ll get a break is often enough to clear away the dread and get you to work. There are desktop and mobile apps to handle the timer aspect—I use the Pomodoro Timer Pro app.

    Clean and simple.

    If possible, also try to block out the ambient noise of your home with some background noise. Preferences vary here–I like the gentle sounds of the Hogwarts Library. Rachel @noonatown, who has been telecommuting full-time for about six years, uses standard white noise to improve focus. On the other hand, her husband, who’s been working from home for 12 years, prefers podcasts and music while working. And video game soundtracks are amazing focus boosters, since that’s exactly what they’re composed for.

    Between your start-of-the-workday ritual, productivity hacks like a Pomodoro timer, and some good background noise to shut out your domestic surroundings, you should be better equipped now to get the most out of your home-based workday. But that’s just the beginning.

    Encouraging productivity and balance with a consistent schedule

    Many remote workers struggle with maintaining a healthy separation between work time and leisure time. I’ve definitely had that problem. When your office is in view of your sofa and your sofa is in view of your office, it’s easy to make yourself too available to work even outside of your regular business hours, which can be detrimental to both mental health and family relationships. If you’re not feeling particularly engaged with your work, the converse can be just as true: being at home presents many temptations to step away from the desk and not come back.

    If your job requires you to adhere to a set schedule while working from home, that makes things simpler. You know your start time, your break time, and your end time. Commit to showing up on time and ready to work–and commit to walking away at the end of your shift. Make it clear to anyone you share your home with that in between your start and end times, you are working and should be treated as if you aren’t home as much as possible.

    Make it equally clear to yourself that once your workday is done, you are not working and don’t need to go back to your workspace until your next shift begins. If possible, leave your workspace altogether and don’t come back until the next day. Alternatively, put your work kit away. I also like to finish the workday by reviewing my planner and creating my task list for the next day.

    If your job is relaxed in terms of scheduling, with expectations centered around the completion of deliverables rather than the logging of hours, you’ll have to put more effort into establishing your work-life balance. I strongly suggest you set yourself a consistent workday schedule anyway, based on the number of hours you estimate you’ll need each day to complete your tasks. Habit is a powerful thing. The more you can get into the habit of sitting down to work at X time and expecting to stay there until either Y time or until you’ve completed your tasks for the day, the more efficient you’ll be. Otherwise, it’s too easy to start sliding down the slippery slope of starting a little later every day until you’re fully on Quarantine Time and chained to your desk until midnight.

    Choose rewards for yourself to encourage punctuality and productivity. They don’t have to be huge, but they should be something you look forward to enough to earn them. Maybe you’ll order yourself a box of sheet masks after starting on time for a full week; maybe you’ll give yourself a Lindt chocolate truffle egg for each day you complete all your tasks. (Did you know those are a thing? I didn’t before, but I do now. They’re delicious.)

    Staying alert and healthy while working from home

    Several Instagram followers asked me how they can avoid sluggishness and the temptation to nap during the day, especially if they’re struggling with depression already. These are struggles I’ve had too. I’ve developed several mechanisms to prevent them.

    The most helpful trick I’ve found is to stay physically active during the day. Remember those short and long breaks bestowed by the Pomodoro technique? I use those to get up and move around, taking a couple of minutes out of my chair and away from my desk. I’ll often go look out the window or step onto the patio for some sunlight and fresh air. An excessively sedentary lifestyle is detrimental to both physical and mental health, so any movement helps.

    I also often stretch. One major benefit of working from home is that you don’t have to worry about coworkers witnessing your stretch breaks. I find that stretching my hamstrings with standing or seated forward folds and my hip flexors with deep lunges helps prevent lower back tightness. Upper back and shoulder stretches also keep my back from turning into one massive sheet of pain by the end of the day. As a bonus, the effort and sensation of stretching wakes me up when I’m feeling sleepy.

    I’ve got a personal list of helpful stretches for my particular back problems, which I mostly learned from the Daily Yoga app that I use. Daily Yoga even has an easy office yoga program to help counteract computer back and desk legs.

    They also run frequent sales and have a 7-day free trial that unlocks all the videos and Gold Pro subscription features.

    I follow some Instagram physical therapists. @dr_jacobpt and @joetherapy post super helpful video demos of their recommended exercises and provide great explanations–check them out if you need ideas.

    Making sure to move around regularly during your workday counteracts sluggishness and fatigue, but there are other things you can do, too. Many people find that limited food options at work cause them to eat unhealthily. Taking advantage of your full kitchen for your snacks and lunch can give you a leg up. I know I put Kit Kats and cartoon character corn sticks in my work kit photo, but being at home also means I have access to all the fresh meat and produce in my fridge to make healthy meals that won’t leave me drooping after lunch.

    Try not to rely on caffeine too much if you can help it. That can disrupt your sleep at night, making you feel progressively worse and more dependent on caffeine as time goes on.

    Having fun working from home

    Until now, we’ve been pretty serious about establishing good professional work habits and environment. But let’s face it–you’re working from home. There is a flexibility inherent in working from home, and as long as you’ve established your baseline productive work habits, you should take advantage of it!

    Earlier, I mentioned establishing a set work start and end time even if you’re not on a shift schedule. I never said it has to be 8-5 or 9-6 or anything like that. If you’re naturally more nocturnal and you don’t need to be present in the mornings specifically, feel free to play around with your schedule, starting later and ending later than standard business hours if you feel it would suit you more.

    Unless I have meetings in the morning, I personally like to start about 11. If you naturally get up earlier, meanwhile, you could always start earlier and end earlier, leaving yourself with a lot of the day free afterwards. I also build a couple of longer breaks into my day, rather than just a half hour lunch; the longer breaks are for making meals and doing things with my son. Then I just end my workday later in the evening.

    Sheet mask at your desk if you want. Hell, do entire skincare routines at your desk if you want. Give yourself an exercise break over lunch. Within the limitations of Social Isolation, you can find plenty of freedom to craft a workday that perfectly suits your needs.

    Sometimes I do multiple masks at my desk in a row. The cold wet mask also helps keep me awake if I feel groggy.

    And try to stay positive overall. There’s definitely a lot of internal screaming in my head, and plenty of external screaming in the group chats I keep open with friends so we can connect and have some adult human interaction and fresh cat memes throughout the day, but at the end of the day, those of us able to work from home are very lucky and very privileged to do so.

    As a final note, several readers asked what they can do to help support loved ones who are not able to work from home–first responders, medical personnel, and others in positions deemed essential. I think finding ways to help reduce the time they need to spend away from home outside of their jobs is a great place to start.

    Offer to pick up groceries and household supplies for them when you’re doing a supply run or online order for your household if you’re in a position to do so. You can still minimize social contact by agreeing on a pickup time and leaving their items by your door or in some other place they can access at that time. Keep in touch and check on them via text or phone–not just their physical health but their mental health as well. And simply find ways to be a friend (or sister or brother or whatever your relationship is) whenever you can, in whatever ways that means to you.

    We really will get through this.

    These times are insane. My head spins on a more or less constant basis at the speed with which life flipped upside down here in the States, where I live. But I do believe we will get through this somehow. The more we adhere to best practices for keeping ourselves, our families, and our fellow humans safe and healthy, the more likely it is that we’ll get through this with society fairly intact, and sooner rather than later. We may even come out of this with some better habits than before.

    Be kind to yourself. Give yourself space and permission to fall apart if you need to. Just remember to catch yourself if you’re falling into real despair.

    If you need someone to talk to, even just to vent about the state of the world or the state of your pantry or toilet paper stash, and you don’t feel like you have anyone to turn to, please find me on Instagram and DM me! I try to get through most DM requests when I have spare time and I would be happy and honored to listen and help if I can. I’m also fully on Quarantine Time now and find myself waking up in the middle of the night for an hour or more, so that’s extra time I’ll probably use to field messages anyway.

    I love you guys. Be healthy and safe and do your best to stay sane!

  • Guest Post: A Visit to the Sulwhasoo Spa in Hong Kong
    Note from Fiddy: Today’s post is brought to you by my friend Karen. Karen recently visited the Sulwhasoo Beauty Lounge in Hong Kong, and I wanted to share her experience. Enjoy!

    Hi hi! I’m Karen, otherwise known as @skin_karen on Instagram. I recently received a facial treatment at a Sulwhasoo Spa in Hong Kong, and Jude thought it would be cool for me to write about my experience!

    Awww she’s so cute :3

    Sulwhasoo has Spas and Beauty Lounges. Spas have full body treatments as well as facial treatments. Beauty Lounges have facial treatments only, although there is an option for stomach treatment add-ons during your facial. There are two Spas and two Beauty Lounges in Hong Kong. I went to the Sulwhasoo Beauty Lounge in Times Square, Causeway Bay. Since I went to a Beauty Lounge, I will talk about that experience. Note that since this was in Hong Kong, the estheticians speak Cantonese. I have the advantage of speaking and understanding Cantonese, so I was able to ask questions. I probably wouldn’t have been able to do this in Korea.

    Bookings

    There’s really no way to book online, and at the location I went to, you can’t just go up and make an appointment in person, either. It’s best to have WhatsApp, since that’s how most HKers communicate. There’s a security guard by the elevator to make sure you have an appointment. I ended up emailing customer service, gave them my WhatsApp number, and the Sulwhasoo Beauty Lounge contacted me. I told them what dates worked, they gave me a time, and that’s that! Fairly painless!

    Arrival

    I went upstairs to the 15th floor. I actually walked into the Spa first, but they directed me to the Beauty Lounge. Upon arrival, they greeted me, asked for my name, and offered me a beverage. While I sat down and enjoyed my tea, they went over the various facial treatments. I originally wanted to do the Plum Blossom Vitalizing Treatment using their Bloomstay Line. However, I told the estheticians that I had dry skin and have been flying on airplanes, so we decided to go with the Ginseng Rejuvenating Treatment.

    All ready for a Luxury Hanbang Experience.

    The Facial

    The esthetician, we’ll call her H, led me to the room, helped me change my shoes to slippers, gave me a robe, and showed me the closet and the sink, where I could refresh myself after the treatment. H left me to change. When I was ready, she helped me onto the bed (it was heated 👌) and got started.

    H started with the first cleanse, using the Gentle Cleansing Oil. It was already so relaxing as soon as she started massaging the product onto my face. She really took her time to massage the product into my face. After removing the oil, she did a second cleanse using the Gentle Cleansing Foam. Again, H really took the time to massage the product onto my face.

    After cleansing, H gave me a hand mirror and talked me through my skin. My skin overall was not too bad. My forehead had enlarged pores. My nose had some clogs, and the pores near my nose were also enlarged. Sallow complexion and some redness on the cheeks. My chin area and neck was a little puffy due to water retention.

    Before starting, H held some essential oil (Eucalyptus?) and had me take deep breaths in and out. This really helped set the mood. Afterwards, H used the Snowise Brightening Exfoliating Mask and steamed my face.

    Mask on.

    While waiting, she asked me how I heard about Sulwhasoo and whether I’ve used any of their products. I found out that she’s been with the company for several years now. Anyone Sulwhasoo hires as an esthetician must have had previous experience, and then there’s additional training before they can work with clients.

    After removing the exfoliating mask, H worked on doing extractions. This was a pleasant surprise for me, since I wasn’t expecting it. When I got a facial in Korea a few years back they didn’t really do extractions. H was very gentle; I don’t know if it was the product or her, but I barely noticed the extractions. As you can see in the before and after photos, she got rid of a big clog on my nose and removed all the hormonal congestion on my chin without leaving a mark. 👌 Following the extractions, H used a high frequency violet ray wand on my face to kill off bacteria.

    Next, H applied a lip balm and eye cream before putting on a First Care Activating sheet mask. When I asked why a sheet mask first, H explained to me that it’s the First Care Activating sheet mask, so like the First Care Activating Serum, it helps boost subsequent skincare absorption, usage, and effectiveness. While the sheet mask sat on my face, H used the Radiance Energy Mask (which I’ve personally used and love), mixed with an oil that they only use in the Beauty Lounge, to give me a décolleté and arm massage. Let’s just say I will start incorporating the neck and chest massage into my skincare regimen at least once a week!

    Once H was done with the décolleté and removed the sheet mask, she used the Concentrated Ginseng Renewing Cream mixed with Concentrated Ginseng Renewing Facial Oil to give me a facial massage. I’m pretty sure I fell asleep at this point. Why is it that a facial always feels better then doing it yourself? I will never wash my face the same way no matter how long I try to stand there and massage the product onto my face.

    I managed to wake myself up for H to explain it was time for a second sheet mask. However this time it was going to be sort of DIY. It was some sort of material (I wasn’t too sure what it was in English) with the mouth cut out and a nose slit. As you can see it covers the eyes. Once H applied it to my face, she saturated the mask with the Essential Balancing Water. Whatever the material was, it really hugged the skin. I’ve never felt a sheet mask hug the face so well. While the sheet mask sat on my face, she gave me a heated neck pillow filled with Chinese herbs. The herbs were good for drawing out water. H left the room so I could relax. Again pretty sure I fell asleep.

    I would fall asleep blissfully, too. -Fiddy

    When H came back in, she removed the mask and then actually gently wiped my face down. Internally I panicked because I thought we were done. I will say that even after wiping my face, my skin felt hydrated. H handed me the mirror and had me look at my face after. My pores were definitely smaller and my nose pores were clear. #whatarenosepores I couldn’t tell much difference in the neck area, but she laughed and told me the swelling had come down. Here’s the before and after so you tell me if you see a difference!

    Luckily I internally panicked for no reason. Because H told me it was time finish the rest of the facial. She started off with the First Care Activating Serum, followed by the Concentrated Ginseng Renewing Water and Concentrated Ginseng Renewing Emulsion. She finished with the Concentrated Ginseng Renewing Eye Cream and the Concentrated Ginseng Renewing Cream. I will say all these products have a light ginseng scent, but nothing heavy or appalling. H asked if I wanted to apply sunscreen, and since the sun hasn’t set yet, I said yes. She used the Hydro Aid Moisturizing Soothing UV Protection Fluid SPF50+/PA++++.

    H thanked me and asked if I wanted tea or water. She then left me to get dressed. When I went to the front, she gave me a cup of tea while the receptionist prepared my receipt. H also gave me a little welcome packet with samples of the products she used on me during the facial.

    Cost and final thoughts

    The facial was 90 minutes and costs HKD1,200, or around $155.00. However, with the promotion it was HKD960 or around $124. This is comparable to a facial in the San Francisco Bay Area with tip, but when they use all Sulwhasoo product it’s 👌👌. Also I don’t think most facials are that length for that price. Overall, if you ever have the opportunity and the financial means, I highly recommend treating yourself and getting a facial from Sulwhasoo. I swear, four days and an international flight later, my skin still looks amazing. I definitely would go back in the future.

    Still looking radiant 3 days later!

    Thanks for reading! Here’s a stray HK kitty, at Fiddy’s request.

    Final note from Fiddy: I still stand by what I said in my very old post about why I don’t get facials, except…I would totally get a Sulwhasoo facial. It wouldn’t involve the risk of having a bunch of unfamiliar products slathered on my face, since apparently they use products I’ve already used and already love. Also I think I need to go get a Sulwhasoo facial.