• Sponsored: Styling Product Winners for Asian Hair

    This post is sponsored by Reflect Beauty.

    Much like makeup and skincare, haircare needs can vary by ethnicity. The Reflect Beauty Awards celebrate the best of beauty for women of all ethnicities, so here are my two cents on Asian hair and what many of us need!

    It’s impossible to boil down the diversity of Asian women into one single hair type (or foundation shade or skin profile), but my hair type is fairly common among East Asian women: thick strands that grow in stick-straight. Shine isn’t an issue as long as I don’t damage it too much with bleach or heat styling, but volume always is, since my hair prefers — above everything else — to lie perfectly flat on my head. On top of that, my scalp produces plenty of oil, further exacerbating the flatness problem.

    At this point, I think I’ve conquered my basic haircare issues. Occasional use of an exfoliating acid on my scalp helps to control oiliness and keep my scalp clear and unclogged, while Olaplex conditioner handily repairs any damage I do to it via the Dracarys-level heat that I have to turn my curling iron to in order to get a curl to stay. Styling products remain a mystery to me, however, so I’m excited to call attention to the products our Asian influencers have picked for this round of the awards.

    East Asian influencer Sandy Lin picked Briogeo Dry Shampoo as one of her winners. I can see why. I’ve never been able to stand going more than a day without washing my hair, and after some informal polling via my personal Instagram and friend group, I’ve found I’m far from the only East Asian who feels that way. Our scalps often get oily quickly, making our hair look limp (and smell less than beautiful) too quickly to allow for less frequent shampooings.

    Unfortunately, daily shampooing can dry out hair strands as well as add extra styling time to already busy beauty routines, so dry shampoos can come in handy. Briogeo’s Scalp Revival Charcoal + Biotin Dry Shampoo uses rice, corn, and tapioca starch as well as kaolin clay to absorb excess oils. Meanwhile, biotin may help improve hair growth, while the fragrance in the product helps freshen the scent of your hair.

    Lack of volume is another common issue for East Asian hair, which really wants nothing more than to lie flat on our skulls all the way down to wherever we’ve chosen to cut it. That is at odds with my desire for my hair to have an actual shape and style. Texturizing sprays help by altering the texture of hair strands so that they stand out from each other more, giving body and shape to otherwise limp hair. Sandy chose Bumble and Bumble Texturizing Spray as another winner; my hairstylist also uses this on me with great results.

    Of course, East Asians aren’t the only Asians in the world. I was happy to see that Reflect Beauty included South Asian beauty influencer Sheba Snow. South Asian hair tends to be very different from East Asian hair, but one of Sheba’s picks, the Redken Heat Protection Treatment, is also relevant for East Asian hair.

    As I mentioned before, I need to crank my curling iron up to the Dracarys setting if I want my curls to last longer than 20 minutes. Sadly, this means inflicting copious amounts of heat damage to my hair. Heat protectants work by coating the hair, slowing down and reducing heat transfer, as my friend, chemist Michelle Wong over at the Lab Muffin beauty blog, explains. This is absolutely critical to preventing high-heat styling from destroying hair.

    No matter what ethnicity we are, we live in a time where there are beauty products available to address our specific needs. Let our experts be your starting point to finding the perfect products for your hair, no matter what kind of hair you were born with!

    Shop the Reflect Beauty Award winners!

  • Introducing the Reflect Beauty Awards: A Celebration of Diverse Beauty

    A note from Fiddy: I’m happy to be joining the team at Reflect Beauty, a new media collective that promotes true diversity in today’s beauty and wellness spaces. Here’s an intro from my colleagues at the site!

    By Sheila Marmon and Nikki Walton of ReflectBeauty.com

    #RepresentationInBeautyMatters and we all deserve an equal opportunity to not only embrace and find confidence in the hair and skin we’re in, but to see ourselves reflected in popular media. And while we’ve witnessed an explosion in available makeup shades, and products for a variety of hair textures and skin needs, there’s still work to be done, progress to be made, and real, lasting beauty inclusivity to be achieved.  Change is not an option here, it’s a necessity– for our quality of life, and for the benefit of the world.

    A Seat at the Table
    They say the most effective way for a woman of color to effect change, is to not just secure a seat at the table, but to build her own table! And the inaugural Reflect Beauty Awards is such a table– built for us, by us, to achieve real, lasting beauty equity worldwide. We are a force: unapologetically showing up as our authentic selves, drinking our water, eating healthy, not skipping leg day, reading our books, and loving ourselves. We are making the shift from being part of a collective beauty standard to realizing that we are our own beauty standard. We are YOU. And the Reflect Beauty Awards is our table, so pull up a chair!

    The Reflect Beauty Awards
    During the next 4 weeks, we’ll be honoring the very best in makeup, hair, and skin products catering to the diversity of pigments, textures, and tones that accurately reflect our inner & outer beauty.  We’re celebrating the brands that celebrate us!

    Our Reflect Beauty influencers and editors will be tackling our biggest beauty-related issues and discussing the most effective solutions and winning products to get the job done.  The best part—our influencers are choosing and sharing only the products THEY love! This is not a drill! This is not a pay-to-play situation. This is an educational tool, a platform for each of us to learn, and share our experiences, frustrations, and triumphs of being our naturally gorgeous selves!

    In addition to having some of the biggest voices in beauty joining the conversation, like Jessica Pettway, Leslie Alvarado, and Sandy Lin, and top publishers on board like us, HypeHair, and Vida Latina driving the message, partner brands like Clinique and UOMA are collectively helping to pave the road to inclusive beauty for all!

    Stay Tuned!
    We’ve planned a fun, fabulous and educational month for you, and we truly hope you’ll join us.  Please stay tuned for plenty of amazing tutorials, wholly relevant articles, weekly beauty box giveaways, and even a few special guests! First up, Makeup Week!  #RepresentationInBeautyMatters #PullUpAChair #ReflectBeautyAwards

  • Off-Blog: Sheet Mask Hacks, Beauty Vitamins, and COSRX Balancium Comfort Ceramide Cream

    Time rushes on, summer turns into even hotter Second Summer, and I’ve got a fresh batch of off-blog articles for you!

    First up, over on new AB shop GlowieCo‘s blog, I’ve gathered five of my favorite sheet mask tips and tricks to get the most out of your masking sessions.

    I’m a very frequent and consistent sheet masker. I use sheet masks 4-5 nights a week and have for a long time. I recognize, however, that many people either don’t want to use sheet masks that often, or simply can’t. In those cases, you can get the most out of your masks by using them when your skin will most benefit from them.

    Read it here. And if you decide to shop GlowieCo after reading, you can use my affiliate code FIDDYSNAILS to get 10% off your order!

    Next up, a reluctant review of COSRX Balancium Comfort Ceramide Cream over on Beautytap editorial. Contains an impromptu semi-rant about the direction COSRX has been going in lately as well as explanation of how I can finish an entire tube of a product and not feel like I really like it that much.

    I find that when my skin is in a normal and healthy state, the Balancium Comfort Ceramide Cream doesn’t do much for me. I’m picky about moisturizers in general, which is why it takes me so long to finish most of them.

    Read it here.

    Finally, I looked into the world of beauty vitamins for Beautytap editorial. There are a lot of beauty supplements out there these days, and while they can be promising theoretically, the execution still strikes me as exceptionally sketchy.

    With some rare exceptions, the beauty supplement concept never appealed to me. When you ingest something, it has to be broken down in your digestive system and nutrients then distributed to the rest of your body. Conventional wisdom and personal experience both suggest that skin gets the short end of the stick.

    Read it here.

    There’s always more to come. I’ll be back, though next time it will be with a product review on this blog!

  • Fiddy Wrote a Book

    That’s right. I freaking did.

    I’ve wanted to write a book for a couple of years now. A blog is a great thing to have, but the bigger it grows, the less accessible it sometimes becomes: posts are uploaded in no particular order or arrangement, and older content can get lost in the shuffle even if the information in it remains relevant and useful.

    My goal was to combine what I’ve learned about skincare with what I’ve learned about how skincare can improve our mental health, creating an ungodly chimera of skincare, self-help, and possibly some off-color and juvenile humor. Me, but in book form, with clear organization and a table of contents and everything. And lots of stuff that isn’t on my blog or in my social media.

    As my original proposal says:

    They say true beauty comes from within—that inner peace creates an outer glow. What they don’t say (at least not as often) is that the rituals we use to enhance our physical beauty can improve our mental health, too. My book links skincare to self-care culture, giving readers a practical guide to developing their ideal skincare routines and using those routines as a tool to better manage stress, anxiety, and depression.

    Late last year, I started talking with a wonderful and amazing literary agent about the idea. What I learned from then until now was that aiming for traditional publication might not be the best route. We had a promising exchange with a major publisher that fell through–beauty books don’t sell well consistently enough to be a safe bet for the kind of publishers that would be able to pay the kind of advances that would make it worth both my time and hers. K-beauty is even more niche.

    I went ahead and wrote it anyway, because I do what I want. And then I had a choice.

    It wouldn’t be impossible to sell it to a traditional publisher. I could work on my proposal, start making the rounds, and spend months or possibly even longer fighting for it, then, if a publisher picked it up, wait even longer for the manuscript to make its way through the corporate machine before publication.

    Or I could publish it myself. It would be more difficult in its own way and still risky. I might not make as much as if I had the patience to go the traditional route, but the book would be out there, and soon. I don’t have the marketing and PR resources of a publishing house, but I can make sure the people who I want to read the book will be aware of it. It’ll be entirely in my control.

    Guess which path I chose.

    The first draft is done. I’ve taken some time away from it to gain distance and perspective. Now it’s time to edit and design and put it together into the book I’ll be sending out into the world. I’m planning to release it for $9.99 as an Amazon ebook in October of this year, but before then, I’m offering it at a $5 pre-sale price for those of you who already read my blog and/or follow me on social media.

    But wait! There’s more!

    I couldn’t have written this without the community I’ve found through skincare and AB. I wouldn’t have anything to say, and I wouldn’t have anyone to say it to. So many of you guys have given me your support and told me your stories and become my friends. I would absolutely love to include you in the final phases of this book’s development. I may ask for your personal stories around skincare and mental health and for feedback on design or specific pieces of text. I’d love to make this not just my book, but our book.

    You can pre-order by sending $5 to my PayPal.me page and entering your email address in the notes field. I’ll know what it’s for, because no one randomly sends me $5. I need your email address to send you your code to receive your book upon release. I’ll also use that email address to contact you when opportunities to provide feedback come up. If you don’t want to hear from me except with the book code, add “book only” after your email address, and I’ll leave you alone until the book is out!

    Pre-orders will be open through the month of September via PayPal are closed. Please see my latest book update here for up-to-date information on the book project!

    I’m so excited to share my book with you guys and I’m so happy that I can. Thank you so much for reading my blog posts, following my Instagram, DMing me, and letting me into your lives. Your support over the last few years has completely changed my life, and I’ll always be grateful for every single one of you.

    This is happening. Let’s do this together!

  • Off-Blog: Lip and Eye Patch Masking Tips

    I promised I’d be better at linking my off-blog articles! Today’s is in the Beautytap editorial section and features tips for maximizing the effects of lip and eye masks.

    I don’t use lip patches nearly as often as eye patches. In the first place, I’m not that preoccupied with my lips. As long as they’re not flaky or dry and cracking, they’re fine. I don’t even wear lip color usually. And in the second place, I feel the need to sip from a beverage every 5 minutes or so all day long. No, not always an alcoholic beverage. Sometimes just soda or water. Yes, really. Anyway, lip patches get in the way of that.

    Read it here.

  • Off-Blog: 10-Minute Skincare Routines and BTS x Mediheal Mask Review
  • Off-Blog: My Dewy Skin Tips at GlowieCo

    As many of you may know, I do some freelance writing, both because I like money and because I like having additional platforms from which to spew my never-ending thoughts about skincare. I’ve recently taken on the new AB e-tailer GlowieCo, which launched with a selection of awesome Taiwanese and Japanese skincare products. I really like the GlowieCo leadership team’s attitude towards AB and I love their focus on T-beauty, so writing for them is a natural fit! My first post there is a primer on getting that famous dewy glow with skincare rather than makeup.

    There may always be room for a matte look, but fresh, glowing, bare (or bare-looking) skin is everywhere these days—it’s a look that’s both aspirational and down-to-earth. And though that dewy glow can be approximated with makeup, it’s best achieved through skincare. Instead of seeing our complexions as canvases to be painted over, we’re finding ways to make our skin a feature to be celebrated all on its own. But though it appears effortless, bare(ish) skin with that coveted dewy finish does take work.

    Please hop over and have a read here! And if you shop their site afterwards, you can use my affiliate code FIDDYSNAILS for 10% off.

    No base makeup here. Only skincare.

    And if you weren’t aware that I write for other sites, you can see my work occasionally on Beautytap’s editorial side and the Holy Snails blog.

    Thanks for reading and thanks for being awesome!

  • Routine Maintenance: When to Switch Up Your Skincare and When to Not

    So you’ve carefully assembled your very own custom skincare routine and painstakingly added products in one at a time. You’ve stuck with it for weeks or months, kept notes, and seen some results, at least enough to keep going. But now you feel like you’re in a rut. You’re eyeing your lineup and ogling other people’s routines on Instagram, feeling the urge to make a change. Is it time to switch things up?

    Maybe. Maybe not. Could be the best thing you do for your skin. Or a Very Regrettable Decision.

    Making good choices for your skin means thinking about why you want to do things to it, so let’s do some thinking together.

    (more…)

  • Updated Review: Save the Soo Ae Donkey Milk 3D Moisture Cream!

    May 21, 2019 update: The Soo Ae Donkey Milk 3D Moisture Cream has been discontinued, but together we can bring it back! Soo Ae has offered to bring my favorite barrier-strengthening, all around nourishing, day- and night-appropriate moisturizer back if they receive 5,000 pre-orders for it. To make it easier to reach their goal, they’ve also taken 50% off of the retail price for the pre-sale. Order it here or read on to find out why I love this cream so much after all this time. And please share this post far and wide–we can make this happen!

    Originally published September 7, 2015

    So let’s talk about moisturizing creams.

    Moisturizers are one of the most basic and foundational elements to any skincare routine. Whether you’re reading this from the bottom of the Asian cosmetics rabbit hole or the skincare shelves at your local CVS, you most likely know what moisturizer is and what it does. And you most likely don’t give it much thought. I know I didn’t…until I started using prescription tretinoin. Now I’m all about the creams. This series of three reviews will showcase my three favorite moisturizing creams, the ones that have kept the notorious tret-induced dryness and flakiness at bay so far, helping my skin stay soft and comfortable despite the prescription-strength assault on its moisture levels. Let’s start with my number one: Soo Ae Freeset Donkey Milk 3D Moisture Cream!

    (more…)

  • Skincare Routine Building Tip: Please Don’t Start a Full Routine All at Once

    If you hang around online skincare communities long enough, you’ll end up seeing at least a handful of variations on the “I Tried a 10-Step Korean Beauty Routine and My Face Burst into Flames” theme. And if you’re newer to skincare or K-beauty, you may at some point be tempted to try this yourself.

    I was thinking about how common this is the other day, which prompted me to Tweet this:

    But today I feel like I have more to get off my chest, so if you’re thinking that the way to jump into skincare or K-beauty or Asian cosmetics is by throwing an entire routine onto your face at once, please, for the love of your skin, read this first.

    The “10-Step Routine” is Marketing, Not Best Practices

    I’ve been saying it for years: the “Korean Beauty 10-Step Skincare Routine” is a myth, created by brand and retailer marketing departments and disseminated through industry-friendly media and unwitting independent influencers in order to drive the demand for more products. It is not the universal secret to honey glass cloud skin that looks like an Instagram filter was put on it in real life.

    (And on the topic of honey glass cloud skin…)

    Now, to clarify, I don’t think there’s anything wrong with a long routine. I do a long routine most nights of the week–something that might look like this:

    Sample skincare routine Fifty shades of Snail
    (June 2018 skincare routine; some products were provided by brands or shops)

    But that’s me. Not you or anyone else. I do what’s right for my skin, which may or may not be what’s right for anyone else’s skin. And I’m not using products in order to fill specific slots in some skincare routine template. It’s the other way around: my skincare routine depends on what works for my skin. It developed organically rather than from a step-by-step form. Sometimes I do three or four steps at night. Sometimes I do…a lot. I do less in the mornings and whenever else I want to.

    It’s about what your skin needs. Not about what some external “authority” tells you it needs.

    Oh, and those brand lines that have a product for every step, all within the same line’s branding and theme? Please don’t let the existence of these full routine brand lines convince you that you need the entire line on your face. I prefer to think of these lines are offering a variety of options. Maybe I want more ginseng on my face, but I already have a (non-ginseng) serum and cream–in that case, I might pick up the toner. I know brands like to insist that their lines work ~synergistically~ so you should use it all, but in my experience, a mixed routine incorporating a variety of different beneficial ingredients produces better effects.

    Trying Multiple New Products at Once Is a Bad, Bad Idea

    Okay, so not everyone needs the “full” [however many steps the latest commercial beauty media article specifies] “K-beauty” skincare routine. What about starting a new routine of any length all at the same time?

    Please God no.

    Just…

    There are a lot of things that could go wrong here.

    Every unfamiliar product you introduce to your skin has the potential to clog pores, cause irritation, create breakouts, or trigger a reaction. Even my skin, which is generally quite hardy and very rarely suffers anything worse than a bit of redness if I’ve gone too hard with the actives, has had its moments.

    After applying Su:m37 White Award Bubble Detox Mask
    Doing this just once gave me one of the worst rashes I’ve ever had the misfortune of experiencing. On my FACE. Also, I wish I could remember what happened to that shirt, because it was really, really comfy.

    Now multiply that risk by however many products your potential new routine includes.

    The worst thing is, if you have a reaction to just one of the new products you put on your face in combination with a bunch of other new products, you’re not going to have any way of knowing which new product was the culprit. The whole routine is implicated unless you stop using all the products for long enough to let your skin recover, then re-introduce each new product one at a time until you find the one that messed up your skin, at which point you’ll have messed up your skin again.

    This is the point at which more than one person has thrown in the towel and declared all of K-beauty or all of skincare to be terrible. And that’s absolutely not true, but good luck convincing someone that it’s not true when “K-beauty” gave them an unforgettably bad reaction that might take months to heal.

    As a side note, patch testing can somewhat help mitigate the risks, but it isn’t a perfect solution. Testing your skin’s reaction to a product on one small area of your face or neck might help identify if the product is irritating overall, but unfortunately (or fortunately?), reactions and breakouts don’t always happen uniformly on every single inch of the skin that’s exposed to the offending product. I have certain areas of my face that are more prone to acting up if they come into contact with something they don’t like, but that’s still only probability, not certainty. Depending on the state of my skin, a totally different spot might react the next time.

    How to Introduce New Products to Your Skin

    Slowly and carefully, that’s how. Skincare isn’t speed dating. Take the time to get to know each product and how you feel about it.

    What I mean is, introduce new products to your skin one at a time. When I’m asked about starting a new routine, I generally tell people to give their skin at least a week with one new product before adding another new one to the mix. A week should typically be long enough to see if something bad is going to happen. If you’re willing to go even longer in between new products, however, that’s even better.

    You may indeed end up with a long routine that makes your skin happy. Or you may find that your skin maxes out at just a few products, in which case, that should make your wallet happy, too. The point is that you can’t know what’s going to work best for your skin until you get to know your own skin. Your skin is an individual, a free spirit. No K-beauty or skincare “expert” can tell you exactly what to put on it to get the results you want. But they can lead your skin to disaster by trying.

    (Want to know more about how I put together a skincare routine? Check out the posts in my Routine Building category!)

    Now spill. Has trying to follow the concept of the ~K-Beauty 10 Step Routine~ caused any problems for you?