Finding the best skin care products since 2014. Started with a focus on Korean skincare and grew from there. Skincare tips and beauty tips that work, maybe some hamster butts too
Everyone has an inner conflict. Here’s (one of) mine: I love getting my skin very, very clean, but I hate all the cleansers that feel like they actually get that job done.
If you want healthy skin, you need clean skin. Left on for too long, dirt, oil, dead skin, sunscreen, and makeup can all clog pores and cause breakouts, and neglecting to cleanse your skin at night wastes an opportunity to treat it with the products that can improve it. Also, dirty skin feels gross.
But typical deep cleansers are harsh, stripping, and alkaline. They remove dirt and oil, yeah, but they also tear up your skin’s natural moisture barrier. That can lead to dehydrated skin, increased surface oiliness, and–you guessed it–breakouts. Here’s a tip: If your cleanser makes your skin feel squeaky, dry, tight, or itchy, it’s time to find a gentler one. Problem is, many gentle cleansers hardly foam up at all, leading to an unsatisfactory cleansing experience. I dislike unsatisfactory cleansing experiences.
That’s where the mighty little konjac sponge comes in. (more…)
Those of us who’ve adopted the Korean skin care lifestyle have been watching its popularity rise in the West for some time now, but it’s always validating to see a major and mainstream media outlet talking about it. Fortune.com discussed it in “Beauty, Gangnam Style” earlier this week. Here’s a bit of what Christina Valhouli had to say about the Korean beauty industry:
Well! Finally managed to take a few selfies that don’t make me cringe and want to live in a cave forever, so here’s my first FOTD. Pictures taken in indirect natural light, a few feet away from the bedroom window at midday. Product list and tools below!
If you see any mess in the background, please ignore it. I haven’t picked up for a couple of days.You know how long it took me to learn how to get my brows to be okay? YEARS.I do know how to smile like a normal person in real life. It’s just that cameras bring out the Chandler Bing in me. (Ms. Chanandaler Bong.)
And here are bonus pics of how I organize my makeup and tools.
I got this organizer at the Harbor Freight tool store in my neighborhood.The few things I have that don’t fit into the Harbor Freight case go in this old Etude House bag.Japanese blotting papers, my blush, the embarrassingly girly Etude House Secret Beam powder pact, and the adorable Tony Moly Cat’s Wink powder pact.Over the last six months or so, I’ve learned what a difference quality tools makes. The Shu Uemura eyelash curler and Sigma brushes are my ride or die.
I used to be really indifferent to makeup. I’d just use whatever I found at the drugstore, and never really bothered to learn how to improve my application. Lately, however, I’ve really enjoyed trying new things and being braver with color. And the brushes. The brushes are great!
Red lipstick! I was terrified of it for years, partially out of the fear that I’d choose the wrong shade and look ridiculous, and partially out of the fear that even the right shade would look ridiculous on me, like a little kid playing dress-up with Mommy’s makeup. Well, I am a mommy now, and I’m definitely too old to look like a little kid under any circumstances, so here’s a red lip.
(Updated with slightly better lip swatch pics.)
Mostly natural light. Excuse my sorry application. I haven’t found a good liner to match this yet.In bathroom lighting. I can never get over how much of a difference lighting makes to the way colors look.What it looks like. When I bought it, I didn’t pay enough attention and thought it was a gloss. Oh well.
Quick tip: If you’re applying with the doe foot applicator that comes with the tube, wipe off most of the product on the applicator before putting it on your lips, and apply in thin layers to build intensity. They’re not kidding when they call it ColorSTAY. Once it sets, this lip color lasts forever. I’ve worn it from morning to night with very little fading or flaking, and I usually remove it by massaging (for a while) with a tiny dab of my cleansing balm. It doesn’t come off with normal wear or washing.
It has come to my attention, thanks to a post on Reddit’s Asian Beauty community, that Missha is reformulating its famous First Treatment Essence and rebranding it as First Treatment Essence Intensive.
Will this nearly empty bottle and that unopened one be the last of my beloved FTE, forever?
The new formulation, per Reddit user /u/naoti, ditches the licorice root extract and changes the proportions and quantities of FTE’s plant extracts.
Boo.
Licorice root extract is an effective brightener that works to lighten hyperpigmentation and brighten skin tone. Many of the other plant extracts, on the other hand, are a little bit more questionable when it comes to effectiveness. Some users are guessing that the reformulation may be an attempt to lower manufacturing costs.
Missha’s FTE has been one of the star players of my skin care routine for quite a while–that almost-empty bottle you see is my second, and each bottle lasts a very long time (I’m estimating 6-7 months apiece, with twice-daily large splashes on my face). It’s a dupe of Shiseido’s exorbitantly expensive SK-II facial essence; respected bloggers like Kerry at Skin and Tonics and Sheryll at The Wanderlust Project have given it rave reviews, with Skin and Tonics declaring it the clear winner over SK-II and Sheryll calling it “miracle water, made out of angel tears.” Personally, I credit it with giving my skin an instant glow every time I use it and with improving the texture, elasticity, and evenness of my skin with long-term use. I’m really sad to see the formulation change.
Who knows? Maybe the new formulation will be a winner, too, even without the licorice root extract. I’m sure I’ll be loading up on samples and giving it a fair try once I’m completely out of what I’ve got. But I wish they hadn’t changed the formulation in the first place. There wasn’t anything wrong with it to begin with.
FTE fans, are you disappointed that Missha is reformulating the popular product? Or are you excited at the possibility that the new formulation might be even better?
I love Japanese and Korean skin care products, but when it comes to most makeup, Western brands are just fine. I don’t have to wait a week or more for a simple lipstick, and I don’t feel too guilty or disappointed if a color doesn’t work out.
It’s a rainy gray day, so I wanted to liven up with a touch of color. But not too much. A sheer berry seems just right. Here are my lips (against my Missha M Signature Real Complete BB Cream No. 21 skin), wearing L’Oreal Color Riche Balm in Plush Plum.
In natural light, such as it is.And in classic “makes skin extra yellow” bathroom light.
If you want to try it out or get one for yourself, here’s what the tube looks like.
By the way, if you’re thinking about getting dark corduroy upholstery, don’t. The stuff shows crumbs like no other.Here’s what it looks like opened.
It’s time for the first episode of my 15-part foray into the land of the Innisfree It’s Real Squeeze Mask! We’ll be starting with a review of the Black Berry sheet mask.
Sorry for the weird lighting. I took this picture in bedroom light sometime around midnight.
Sheet masks are by far my favorite addition to my usual nighttime skin care routine. I do a sheet mask at least two or three evenings a week to supplement my daily products with an extra infusion of moisture and actives. Sheet masks are perfect for relaxing at the end of the day. Pull one out of the fridge, slap it on a freshly cleansed and prepped face, and lie back for half an hour or so, and you end up with juicy, soft skin that lasts well into the next day. What’s not to love?
For someone who loves sheet masks so much, however, I haven’t ventured out of the My Beauty Diary safety zone much. Innisfree might change that.
Unlike some brands, Innisfree helpfully provides English information on the back of the packet.
Purpose: Innisfree’s It’s Real Squeeze Mask in Black Berry is a moisturizing sheet mask that claims to deliver nourishment for healthier skin.
Do not use if: You are allergic to blackberries or sensitive to silicones, fragrance, or anything else in the ingredients list.
When and how to use: In the evening, after cleansing and before your final moisturizing step, tear open the mask packet, remove the sheet mask, unfold and fit over face. The mask has several slits to assist in customizing fit. Leave on for the time specified on the label (or a little bit longer), then remove. Pat or massage in excess product and finish with your emollient or occlusive moisturizing cream.
Innisfree’s branding emphasizes pure, natural ingredients, but don’t be fooled into expecting Benton-like products packed with actives and nearly free of fillers. The ingredients list for the Black Berry sheet mask starts out the same as many other sheet masks, with water, the common humectant glycerin, and the common slip agent and penetration enhancer butylene glycol. Pretty standard. Those ingredients are standard because they’re effective, however, so they don’t turn me off.
Notable ingredients: My CosDNA analysis of the Black Berry mask’s ingredients list is reassuring at first glance. Analysis identified a handful of ingredients as potential irritants or acne triggers, but none scored higher than a 1. Those ingredients are butylene glycol, dimethicone, and PEG-100 stearate, all of which got a 1 for acne, and carbomer, which scored a 1 for irritant potential. But when alcohol is entered into CosDNA as “alcohol denat.” rather than just “alcohol,” it scores a whoping 5 for irritation potential. If you’re sensitive, beware.
On the beneficial ingredients side, this mask does contain several fruit extracts–including blackberry, of course–which most likely provide some skin-friendly vitamins and antioxidants. Down in the bottom half of the list, you’ll also find sodium hyaluronate to enhance hydration, as well as camellia sinensis leaf extract, more commonly known as green tea leaf extract. Green tea is famous for its antioxidant properties, and the leaf extract excels at soothing inflammation and reducing redness for a more even skin tone. It’s too far down on the list in this product to make a significant impact, but then again, this Innisfree sheet mask doesn’t claim to affect skin tone, and a little is better than nothing.
Performance
This mask doesn’t claim anything besides nourishment and a general improvement in skin health, so my expectations aren’t especially high or targeted. In fact, I chose this mask because of its very basic benefits. The assortment I got only comes with one of each sheet mask variety, and I wanted to save the masks that address specific issues for when I might actually need them. I’m not experiencing any “skin troubles” (nice Korean euphemism for breakouts), my skin isn’t feeling unusually dry, and since I’m testing the Missha M Signature BB cream, brightening skin tone and making it more even aren’t priorities at the moment. All I want from this mask is soft and nicely moisturized skin.
Like most other sheet masks, the Innisfree It’s Real Squeeze Masks come folded up and sealed into individual packets. Unfolding the wet and tightly folded mask is a little challenging, but I managed to do it without ripping the mask.
Tearing open the packet was the saddest part of this experience. I’m in love with Innisfree’s aesthetic: crisp, vibrant photography; simple and elegant text; and plenty of clean white space.
When I unfolded the mask and put it on, I had my first really pleasant surprise: it fits better on my face than any other sheet mask ever has, including hydrogels! I didn’t need to cut or adjust the eye area at all, and the mask provided plenty of coverage for my upper and lower eyelids. (People with larger eyes may need to cut or tear the eye openings a little bit to make them fit, though.) The sheet was small enough that I didn’t end up with inches of excess fabric under my jaw and chin, and the material is thick enough to prevent accidental tearing without being too thick to adhere properly on my face. It stayed on well throughout the time I used it.
Told you I’d show you my scary sheet mask face.
The essence is very different from what I’m used to. Instead of being clear and drippy, it’s milky white and more like lotion than water. The mask sheet is soaked, as expected, but not drippy; there’s just enough excess to let me rub some into my neck and chest, but none slopping around in the packet. Some people like to save the extra essence from their masks. This one doesn’t leave a single drop extra, so it won’t work for that purpose.
Unfortunately, the fragrance wasn’t what I hoped for. Based on the packaging, I’d thought that if this mask smelled like anything, it would smell like fresh blackberries. It does have some fruity notes, but the overall fragrance is floral and a bit perfumey. Not unpleasant, and it didn’t give me a headache the way many perfumes do, but it doesn’t match the product’s presentation in my opinion. And I don’t really like perfumey sheet mask scents.
The instructions suggest using the mask for 10-20 minutes before taking it off. I like to let sheet masks sit a little longer on my skin so that I can absorb as much of the essence as possible. I was able to leave the mask on for about 25 minutes before it started pulling loose on its own, a sign that the sheet has started to dry up and should be removed. During those 25 minutes, I didn’t feel my skin “drinking” in the essence, the way that I always feel with MBD masks. I wonder if that’s because this one uses a thicker, more lotiony formulation than MBD.
After I took the mask off, my skin felt moisturized and refreshed. A significant amount of essence remained on my skin, but it only took a couple of minutes to massage it in, leaving behind a slightly sticky feeling and a pleasant cooling sensation. After wondering for a while, I realized the sensation was what I’d missed before: the feeling of my skin “drinking in” the mask liquid!
40 minutes after I took the mask off, all of the essence was fully absorbed (or evaporated), and the sticky feeling was gone. My skin felt soft, hydrated, and ever so slightly moist, in a good way. I sealed it all in with a dose of Benton steam cream. After cleansing this morning, my skin still felt nicely saturated, smooth and happy. I like this.
Conclusion: Innisfree’s It’s Real Squeeze Mask in Black Berry is by no means a Holy Grail sheet mask. Its formulation is basic in a lot of ways, and if it has to smell like anything, I really wish it smelled like actual blackberries instead of vaguely blackberry-flavored perfume. Despite those little flaws, however, it works. The results were exactly what I expected. It hasn’t earned “keep it stocked at all times” status for me, but I’d definitely consider buying it again, and I wouldn’t kick it out of bed if it showed up as part of a variety set.
Rating:4/5
Rating scale:
1 – This should be taken off the market.
2 – Caused me some problems; would not buy again.
3 – Meh. Neither great nor bad.
4 – Pretty good. Would buy again unless I find something better.
5 – I’ll never be in the market for a replacement unless this one is discontinued.
I know I said that I don’t haul very much anymore because I’ve established a great skin care routine, but a couple of nights ago, I saw a 15-piece Innisfree sheet mask assortment for sale on Amazon. I have Amazon Prime and poor impulse control, so here they are.
They’re pretty. I like Innisfree’s packaging aesthetic.
I’ve been in a pretty deep My Beauty Diary sheet mask rut. I love MBD masks–who doesn’t?–but I feel the need to branch out. Trying something new will cure my sheet mask boredom and enable me to write reviews of some different brands. That way, you lovelies won’t get bored, either. So I found this mask set at the perfect time, wouldn’t you say?
I assume both Acai Berry and Black Berry are meant to deliver antioxidants.
I’ve had good experiences with both of the Innisfree products I’ve tried. The Jeju Super Volcanic Pore Clay Mask is my go-to for deep cleaning pores and purifying my skin when it feels gunky or congested, and the Apple Juicy Cleansing Oil is a very nice emulsifying cleansing oil that smells exactly like green apple Jolly Ranchers. So I’m optimistic about Innisfree’s sheet masks.
Rose hydrates and brightens, and I’m guessing that Strawberry and Pomegranate will brighten and provide antioxidants.
Innisfree is a Korean brand that emphasizes natural ingredients and a clean, fresh aesthetic. The company often uses materials from Korea’s Jeju Island, which I believe is sort of the Hawaii of South Korea.
I’m not going to go into what every single one of these masks does. The caption would be huge.
I’m going to be terrifying my kid with my sheet masked face for a solid two weeks! And if you guys are nice, maybe you’ll get to see my scary mask face, too.
Deep Sea Water claims to hydrate and nourish with “mineral-rich” deep sea water. Salty.
I also have these Deep Sea Water sheet masks from Missha.
I haven’t been this excited about sheet masking for a long time! All the masks are in the refrigerator now, because there’s nothing like a chilled sheet mask for soothing irritation and inflammation. It’s like an ice-cold drink for your face.
The only problem I anticipate is the terrible task of choosing which mask to try each time. Which one should I review first? Give me your suggestions in the comments!
Though I love chemical exfoliation for daily skin maintenance, sometimes nothing beats a scrub. A good scrub instantly enlivens your complexion and gives you that baby-cheek softness you just can’t stop touching. (Wash your hands first, though.) But not just any scrub will do. Today I want to talk about Skinfood’s best-of-breed face scrub, the Skinfood Black Sugar Strawberry Mask Wash Off (yes, that is exactly what it’s called). Along the way, we’ll also discuss some tips for scrubbing safely.
Skinfood’s Black Sugar Strawberry Mask looks and smells as if it belongs in a PB&J. It doesn’t. Don’t try to eat it.
Skinfood is a Korean brand that bases its products around the supposed skin benefits of various foods. With a huge variety of adorably packaged, deliciously scented products at drugstore price points, it is a fantastic Korean skin care starter brand (in other words, gateway drug). Skinfood also makes a huge variety of samples available through online vendors like TesterKorea, so trying out their product lines is cheap and easy. I first experienced the Black Sugar Strawberry Mask Wash Off as a sample tucked into one of my online orders. It was love at first scrub.
Purpose: Skinfood Black Sugar Strawberry Mask Wash Off is a sugar-based face scrub that moisturizes and physically exfoliates skin.
Skinfood really knows how to work the food theme.
Do not use if: You are experiencing an active breakout, are allergic to strawberries, or have sensitivities to lanolin, shea butter, fragrance, or anything else in the ingredients list.
Facial scrub tip: Avoid scrubs, brushes, and rough cloths when having an active breakout. Physical exfoliation can further irritate inflamed skin and spread bacteria from affected areas to the rest of the face.
When and how to use: Use once or twice a week. After cleansing and while face is still damp, lightly massage scrub into skin for 1-2 minutes. Leave on for 10-15 minutes, then massage again and rinse off. I like to use this in the evening, between the oil and foaming cleanser stages of my routine, to ensure that I have removed all of the mask residue.
Facial scrub tip: Don’t overexfoliate! Scrubs and other physical exfoliators should not be used every day. Overexfoliation can cause increased roughness and flakiness and make skin look unnaturally tight and shiny or dull and scaly. Limit physical exfoliation to once or twice a week at most (with the exception of konjac sponges, which can be used every day).
Notable ingredients: According to a CosDNA analysis of the ingredients list, the Black Sugar Strawberry Mask is relatively safe. Only two ingredients are identified as potential acne triggers or irritants: Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) wax and sorbitan laurate. These ingredients each scored a measly 1 for both acne and irritation.
As you might have guessed from the product name, the Black Sugar Strawberry Mask is a sugar scrub. In a good formulation, sugar is an excellent physical exfoliator. It’s gritty enough to remove dead skin but begins to melt as soon as it touches water, which reduces roughness and prevents irritation.
Facial scrub tip: There are a couple of face scrub ingredients to avoid. Crushed walnut shells, a key ingredient in the ever-popular St. Ives apricot scrub and many others, are far too abrasive for the face (though they make great body scrubs). Ultra-abrasive ingredients like walnut shells damage the surface of your skin, creating microscopic lacerations that bacteria can enter. Baking soda is an alkaline nightmare that mangles your skin’s moisture barrier, causing excessive oiliness and/or a prematurely aged appearance. Microbeads, meanwhile, pollute the water supply. Bans against microbeads have been enacted in some states and are being considered in others. Also, I’ve never found microbeads to be effective exfoliators.
Skinfood’s Black Sugar Strawberry Mask Wash Off contains several great moisturizing ingredients. Glycerin and lanolin are both deeply softening and found in many heavy moisturizing products, such as the classic Neutrogena hand cream. Lanolin is also the base for many nipple balms for nursing mothers. Shea butter is another popular moisturizing ingredient. Strawberry seed oil and the rest of the mask’s botanical extracts provide antioxidants, though as with all wash-off products, I’m not convinced they’re on the skin long enough to have much of an effect.
Performance: Unless you’re prepared, you may be in for a little confusion when you unscrew the lid on the plastic tub. The scrub looks like strawberry jam. It even has little strawberry seeds dotted throughout. And it smells strongly like strawberry jam, like the sweetest, tartest, most delicious strawberry jam you’ve ever tasted.
DO NOT EAT. I REPEAT, DO NOT EAT. THIS IS NOT SWEET TREAT.
Don’t try to eat it. As convincing as it looks and smells, this scrub does not taste good. Skin and Tonics even warns readers not to eat the product. I tried anyway, because How could it not taste good? It smells delicious! Repeat after me: It does not taste good.
(Yes, tasting a face scrub was a stupid thing to do. At least I wasn’t the only one. This is apparently a very common lapse of judgment among people who have tried this product.)
Just use it on your face, mmkay?
Immediately after taking this picture, I massaged the scrub in to the back of my hand, and now I have the softest hand.
The texture of the scrub is interesting. It’s not creamy or thick when applied. Instead, the light and watery mask base melts onto the skin immediately, while the generous helping of sugar starts off satisfyingly scratchy but quickly softens as you massage. It is very important to use this on a damp face. When I used it for the first time, I neglected to read the instructions and put it on a dry face. That was far too abrasive. Learn from my mistake and don’t do that.
Facial scrub tip: Never massage anything on your face for longer than a couple of minutes at a time, and never press hard. Excessive massaging causes broken capillaries, which nothing but lasers can fix. It’s your face, not a dirty bathtub. Be gentle and don’t scour.
After the brief wait, skin feels plumper, softer, and more moisturized even as you rinse it clean. The mask rinses off easily and with minimal residue; for people with dry skin, what residue remains can actually be helpful as an additional light moisturizing step. And if you don’t want to wait, you can rinse the mask off right away without losing any of the exfoliating benefits.
Conclusion: Skinfood’s Black Sugar Strawberry Mask Wash Off gives me amazing results every time I use it. My skin instantly feels super soft and looks bright and glowing, never irritated or dry. The results last for days. And the best thing about this scrub? It’s under $10 a tub and lasts for months.
Rating: 5/5
Rating scale:
1 – This should be taken off the market.
2 – Caused me some problems; would not buy again.
3 – Meh. Neither great nor bad.
4 – Pretty good. Would buy again unless I find something better.
5 – I’ll never be in the market for a replacement unless this one is discontinued.
Four bottles are ordered and on their way to me at this very moment, and I can honestly say I’ve never been so excited to receive a sunscreen before. The only flaw I found in the old PA+++ version was that it wasn’t PA++++, so there’s a good chance the updated formula will be my Holy Grail sunscreen. Full review to come once I receive my order!
Fifty Shades of Snail 